Performance Rebuild?

[bkbridges]

I red lighted by .001!
It ran a 13.07 @ 107mph, but I had to lift at the end due to a bad fan ground while staging... I was a bit too hot at the line and had some pre-ignition. I think Ive got that part nailed down now... The Mopar guys didnt really know what to think about it...
Bruce
(alt+p)

[CrAzYMoPaRGuY]

Impressive to say the least Bruce!

What temps did the car run at? Does your BS3 have the temp datalogged?

Are you running a factory rad, or aluminum, or?

What's the total timing set at? I assume you aren't a fan of a knock sensor?

Beautiful car, I've seen it before many times but still can't get enough of it!

[bkbridges]

Thanks!
The radiator is a FacPak radiator that was in the car when I bought it.
On race gas I can run about 34deg total. Pump gas Im limited to about 28deg. Race, Its tuned to come in around 2800rpm, street tune is much more progressive. Its a crank trigger "flying magnet" system, so its a bit more accurate than the distributor. It fires and MSD 6al box with a stock coil. The EFI controls the timing and fuel curves. No knock sensor though. I have a Walbro 255lph pump in the tank and an Essex 350lph pump under the car. They are very quiet. I installed a set of Edelbrock mufflers recently and am very unhappy with them. Im pulling them off when I get a chance and putting something a bit more effective in their place (Flowmaster Hushpower or Magnaflow round canned mufflers all fit), although they work alright at Mopar shows...

[CrAzYMoPaRGuY]

Thanks!
The radiator is a FacPak radiator that was in the car when I bought it.
On race gas I can run about 34deg total. Pump gas Im limited to about 28deg. Race, Its tuned to come in around 2800rpm, street tune is much more progressive. Its a crank trigger "flying magnet" system, so its a bit more accurate than the distributor. It fires and MSD 6al box with a stock coil. The EFI controls the timing and fuel curves. No knock sensor though. I have a Walbro 255lph pump in the tank and an Essex 350lph pump under the car. They are very quiet. I installed a set of Edelbrock mufflers recently and am very unhappy with them. Im pulling them off when I get a chance and putting something a bit more effective in their place (Flowmaster Hushpower or Magnaflow round canned mufflers all fit), although they work alright at Mopar shows...

Does the car run cool usually with the radiator/fan combo?
Race gas and 34 degrees total or pump gas and 28 degrees total leads me to think of either hot temperatures or high dynamic compression.

I elected to not run a knock sensor in my Coupe, I don't care about the dangerous side of possibilities, I don't want my ECU pulling out timing! LOL

Do you have a wideband sensor so you can check your A/F?

Your description of how you built your Jensen is more or less exactly what I like- stock looking exterior, stock looking interior, but performance wise I like to take things up a notch.
Or two....

Or....

hahaha

[bkbridges]

High dynamic compression...
I didnt port the heads and I think the piston dome is not ideal for this combo. Sometime soon Im going to freshen it up and do a bit of head work to it. The Hydralic roller camshaft has a very high ramp rate and a low overlap for its size!...On the road at sub 80F temps it runs at 174 deg normally (175 deg thermostat), although its gotten as high as 220 when we did load tuning on the dyno in 95 F ambient temperatures. With the EFI I have a full digital dash board that has quite a bit of information! (good for calibrating the stock guages too!) I have never boiled over with functional fans. The Air temps under the hood do approach 190deg though (going up the grades to Las Vegas for instance), so a cold air intake seems very prudent, but un-implemented as of yet. That may help the detonation!
Bruce

[CrAzYMoPaRGuY]

High dynamic compression...
I didnt port the heads and I think the piston dome is not ideal for this combo. Sometime soon Im going to freshen it up and do a bit of head work to it. The Hydralic roller camshaft has a very high ramp rate and a low overlap for its size!...On the road at sub 80F temps it runs at 174 deg normally (175 deg thermostat), although its gotten as high as 220 when we did load tuning on the dyno in 95 F ambient temperatures. With the EFI I have a full digital dash board that has quite a bit of information! (good for calibrating the stock guages too!) I have never boiled over with functional fans. The Air temps under the hood do approach 190deg though (going up the grades to Las Vegas for instance), so a cold air intake seems very prudent, but un-implemented as of yet. That may help the detonation!
Bruce

Theoretically then installing a larger cam might INCREASE your performance and cure your detonation. Gotta like THAT!
How is the rev capability with your hydraulic roller? I put a fair sized hydraulic roller in my 360ci motorhome and it has good power and lots of torque, it runs awesome- but doesn't seem to rev very high, if my Autometer tach is accurate I only pull 5100rpm or so.

How do you like the BS3 compared to F.A.S.T. or Accel GenVII?

[Julian_S]

Here goes!
Thanks Marc for the posting help!
Below is a pic of the motor configured with the BG 850 carb and Edelbrock Airgap Performer RPM manifold that barely fit under the hood after I milled 1/2" off the Carburetor mounting flange. The "flow top" for the Aircleaner worked pretty well...

Here's my (500cid) one with performer RPM manifold, Eddy heads, 870 Street Avenger and Moroso cleaner. I didn't have to mill anything from the mounting flange, but I had to saw the wings from the air cleaner nut to *just* get enough clearance. I'd be stuffed without the Schumacher Polyloc engine mounts!



PS - I've got a set of proper MSD custom fit leads and spacers now, those horrid Mopar leads are long gone!

Julian.

[bkbridges]

Sure wish Id have stroked mine when I rebuilt it... Next time! Hows the rest of the car doing with the 500cuin torque?

The BS3 is a very capable and tuneable unit, with full wide band features and full sequential injection. The harness was very nice as well, but the after sales service is spotty...FAST has a better dealer network and I reccomend them to my customers. We are also working with Painless Performance for aq less expensive Sequential EFI system. For FAST systems, weve hooked up with Rich Nedbal, from Mopar Engines West (www.fastmanefi.com) to supply the EFI systems and etc. to do a complete conversion. Hes been doing this stuff for a long time and his technical support is superb!

The Hydraulic roller thats in the car now is still making power when the rev limiter cuts in at 5500rpm. The smaller Hyd roller (HD214) I had in previously gave it up pretty early but made great torque down low. I went to the bigger profile to reduce the detonation/make more power... It did! I dont have an external pickup system in yet, so we are trying to keep things together. Id rev to 6300-6500 from the looks of the hp curve at 5500 with the new pickup and pan...

Bruce

[c.jensen]

racing a interceptor !
would be nice to see (and hear!)

if it´s historic racing you want to do , you have to use the FIA rules i guess ?

anyway the engine buisness:

stroking a racing engine ? i would not do it that way, you get to low rpm, racing is almost always to build a screamer engine, i would put in a 383 add all the good stuff to make it run at 7500 - 8500 rpm together with a good manual box you get the kick you want.
and offcource all the other driveline upgrates you can use acording to the rules you are going to race under.

p.s. go out at have a chat with the other drivers on historic events and get all the tips you can !
also listen to the falcons and the mustangs engines - they are doing 8000-9000 rpms

[Julian_S]

Sure wish Id have stroked mine when I rebuilt it... Next time! Hows the rest of the car doing with the 500cuin torque?



Bruce

The stroker crank is brilliant, when you figure the cost of a grind on the standard crank then the economics make it even more compelling

So far so good with the rest of the car. I had the box rebuilt (by Duncan Watts) with a 4 planet gear set, which I understand to be stronger than the standard one. Also had the shifts tightened up, standard Jensen is far far too soft in my opinion - I guess that also stops the box heating up so much.

I took the view that the torque through the rear axle would ultimately be limited by the grip available from the standard skinny road tires and should survive just fine - so far my thinking has proved correct (touches wood!) Though I plan to fit some coilovers in place of the dampers later this winter when I'm through with some renovation on my roller.

Julian.

[CrAzYMoPaRGuY]

anyway the engine buisness:

stroking a racing engine ? i would not do it that way, you get to low rpm, racing is almost always to build a screamer engine, i would put in a 383 add all the good stuff to make it run at 7500 - 8500 rpm together with a good manual box you get the kick you want.
and offcource all the other driveline upgrates you can use acording to the rules you are going to race under.

p.s. go out at have a chat with the other drivers on historic events and get all the tips you can !
also listen to the falcons and the mustangs engines - they are doing 8000-9000 rpms

Definitely different engine philosophies!

More cubes = more power if you have the ability to move the charge/exhaust.

A 500 cubic inch stroker is a different animal than a 383, it can put out massive torque and unequaled horsepower with factory iron heads, and the gap widens as aftermarket heads are used.

My buddy has a 500 cubic inch 1966 Dodge Dart street car, he runs 9.9 in the 1/4 mile. It pulls over 7000 rpm and made 630hp to the rear wheels on a chassis dyno.

It all depends on the package.

[CrAzYMoPaRGuY]

Here's two short videos for you-

This is a street driven Dodge truck on pump gas. He just built the engine, he's sorting out the bug, but it is a stroker that has some pretty good power.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyNqPrgC3gg

http://www.youtube.com/user/MRMarine1

[Wallace]

Photo's of Bruce Bridges car & Text by Bruce;

The car is actually set-up for road course work, The drag stuff is mainly buisness related fun! It has Koni shocks from the FacPak days (rebuilt by koni), a custom larger adjustable front sway bar, Delrin homopolymer bushings (you can get em from Martin Robey as I think I made the ones they sell!) custom rear springs, 3.54:1 Auburn "posi" differential. No brake modifications yet, and the CG of the car is still too high for tight courses, but for 4300lbs it "gets around"!

[bkbridges]

Wow,
Thanks for the post!
My exhaust was pretty hodgepodge when that pic was taken of the head pipes! The headers fit nicely except for the angled plug heads, which require header removal for a plug change (about 10 minute job)...Long tube headers would be better, but its a start!. The goal for 2210/9272 was to keep the car looking correct (pardon the green paint, the car was originally Havana Brown) while upgrading it to hold its own, performance wise, with more modern vehicles and to be as/more comfortable than it was originally. The exhaust is still too loud to match the sonic comfort of the stock Interceptor, but the performance part makes up for that! Ray Ruthven had the larger front swaybars made up (Hes in NZ now) and I was lucky enough to get one! Makes a big handling improvement with the stiffer rear springs.
Bruce