My New Interceptor - '72 Mk 111, 133-5597

[Series3Jensen]

Chuck

With the sun visor half round covers at the fixing end of the visors, i believe i have two spare of these, as well as two spare visors
I will check in the morning what i have and confirm

Kind regards

Jim Smith
Mem No 1639
136/8791 RJF 17 Owned since September 1978

[RockyUSA]

Thanks, Jim…. Let me know what you find!

I am also happy to report that the rear back seat scuttles or scuppers (I can’t recall what the workshop manual calls them) were both marked 5597 in orange crayon!

I should have taken a picture!

Chuck

[Dion]

You can never trust what your previous owner (PO) tells you….

So true. I fell into that hole when I bought my 1966 Triumph 2000 Mk1 back in 1999. It was a replacement for a 2000 Mk2 where the rust got too far, I was very happy to find a rust free Mk1. The Mk1 owner said the car was repainted a couple of years before because of the flat paint, not because of rot or rust.
Two years later the rear wheelarches fell off, showing big chunks of filler (and rust of course). I had believed the PO because he was a well known "big saloon" person in the small Dutch Triumph club and thought he would not lie about these kind of things.

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[RockyUSA]

I had a question from Adam regarding my switch panel layout…

So in the interest of helpfulness to the community….

Here’s what it should be from my 1972 owners manual…

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Here’s what I’ve got

Panel:

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Console:

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Note I have two “Fog” light switches…. The one on the panel doesn’t do anything (never could find the wires it operated behind the grill), and the one on the console operates my “bespoke” Lucas driving lights.

[adamleamy]

Chuck, this is very helpful.

I've grabbed the pics and sent them to my friend -- I'm sure he'll be absolutely delighted to know what a couple of his 'mystery' switches control -- or should. And the likely order that they can be arrayed in if he's finding some with tight wires, i.e., out of place.

My late-1975 has a different configuration, so I was not able to assist.

Thank you for being so thoughtful so that others might also benefit.

This is a huge help.

Kinds regards,

Adam

[Series3Jensen]

Chuck

Apologies for the delay in responding
I have finally found the two spare covers (half moon) to go over the fixing ends of the sun visors and also one rubber end cap - for the free end - as an example
As these are small and if you still require, I can post these to you
Send me a PM with your address and i will put in the post

Regards

Jim Smith
JOC Mem No 1639
136/8791 RJF 17 Owned since September 1978

[RockyUSA]

Thank you, Jim!

PM sent!

Chuck

[RockyUSA]

04-23-2023: Jensen Drive-It Day...

Took the car out to Arizona to see some cacti!

The Ocotillos shoot out the red blossoms in the spring, but they are especially verdant this year!

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[RockyUSA]

Another:

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[RockyUSA]

Last one....

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[RockyUSA]

There has been a lot of little projects going on since I last posted. I think this one is one of the more important ones.

Pulled my rear tail lights apart, cleaned everything up, including the lenses and gaskets. Used a special copper contact enhancer on all the connections.

Installed new LED tail lights in all the bulbs holders, the running lights and brake light bulbs got replaced with “dual” red LEDs (1157 replacement), And the back up, and turn signal lights, got white “single” LEDs (1156 replacement).

Works good, much brighter, reduce current draw, and turn signal flashers still flash at the correct rate (Likely due to the standard incandescent bulbs upfront).

Anyway, a fairly easy maintenance project, that makes a positive improvement.

Sorry the picture seems out of focus!

Rocky

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[Grant]

Brilliant Chuck..good job done there sport, they really are the way forward with everything these LED's are they, you should do the dash ones in Green RockyMan..brilliant at night, led head torches are brilliant, workshop lighting etc Blah Blah Yada Yada ..Kindness always to you sport

[RockyUSA]

Thanks, Grant -

I’ve got most of the dash lights converted to LEDs, and I’m running Hella E-Code headlights with my super switched harness and relay system!

Too bad I don’t drive much at night!

Chuck

[RockyUSA]

Was out yesterday!

What a good looking Interceptor!

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[RockyUSA]

So I had been struggling to identify a “clunking” noise in my suspension…. Our roads here in Arizona are far from great. Bumps would result in a definite “clunk”.

I also noticed I had something of a brake fluid leak, dripping down on my right front tire.

I took the car to a place with a nice, heavy duty two post lift. Raising the car was a challenge in itself, as the frame tubes are set too far in for me to be able to get the lift pads securely on the chassis tubes. Has anyone else noticed this?

I was able to get the car secured, but only raised it up about 6 inches, as I didn’t really trust the CG. While pressure was off the tires. I gave it the old top & bottom of wheel “shake test” and found that the passenger front wheel bearings were slightly loose.

I popped the wheels off, and found the brake fluid leak was coming from the hard line “bridge pipe” at the caliper.

So I was able to tighten up the wheel bearing, and I tightened up the bridge pipe, but it didn’t seem to stop the leak (as I learned when I arrived home), so I decided I would make a new one.

Driving home I still heard the clunking noises on bumps.

So my follow-on plan was to disassemble the rear suspension, grease and Denso tape the rear springs, and work hard to make sure the Panhard rod was installed correctly.

Once I got home, I jacked up the car, and got the front wheels off and removed the bridge pipe. Immediately, I noticed play in the front right brake caliper! That was my problem! Somehow those silly square lock tabs had not been properly bent over the attachment bolts, and the attachment bolts had apparently had backed off! The motion of the caliper on the knuckle upon braking had resulted in the leak from the bridge pipe!

Anyway, after making a new wiggly bridge pipe, and drilling and safety wiring the caliper attachment bolts, I took “Big Wild” out for a test drive…. Amazingly - my “suspension” noise is gone!

This problem was a tricky one to find, as the caliper was still actually pretty solidly attached to the rotor (due to the piston and pad compression), and so it doesn’t move around when you are doing suspension “wiggle & shake” tests.

Glad I finally got to the bottom of it!

Rocky

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