Next time, post a video please.
Zombie 133 5709
- VFK44
- Co-Administrator
- Posts: 9247
- Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:04 pm
- Location: Epping Essex UK
- Contact:
Re: Zombie 133 5709
"Now that chassis number is particularly interesting ‘cos it’s the one after the one before, which is the one after mine, not many people know that"
Stephen, Epping, Essex
Stephen, Epping, Essex
- Dino Fritz
- Posts: 457
- Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 1:33 pm
- Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Re: Zombie 133 5709
Agree with all the comments so far - don’t worry about the ride height until you have ALL of the weight back on the car, and at the back, you still have a lot of weight to still add on (rear window, interior, etc). The mere fact that you have been able to connect the spring to the shackles (plus they’re the old springs and they were fine before) tells me you’ll be okay.
My dad was a baker, so at the time I threw 10x 25kg sugar bags in the back and that told me everything would be fine - just add ballast to the boot to test (concrete bags, tool boxes, etc).
Dino
My dad was a baker, so at the time I threw 10x 25kg sugar bags in the back and that told me everything would be fine - just add ballast to the boot to test (concrete bags, tool boxes, etc).
Dino
Jensens.........when does it ever end!
Re: Zombie 133 5709
If theres no photo it didn't happen
Dave Pearce
Oily Rag Classics
Jensen FF 119/133
Jensen FF 119/182
Jensen Interceptor III 128/4430
Oily Rag Classics
Jensen FF 119/133
Jensen FF 119/182
Jensen Interceptor III 128/4430
Re: Zombie 133 5709
I just checked mine 133/5737
Engine number (matching) is 10285… same batch of engines
Engine number (matching) is 10285… same batch of engines
- americanjohn
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 12:09 pm
- Location: Düsseldorf, Germany
Re: Zombie 133 5709
Finally getting around to posting some updates as to progress after going down multiple rabbit holes....
Exhaust
Got together with some other Interceptors owners here and had a small series of custom exhaust systems made. Zombie was the Job 1 prototype. After initially deciding to go with the stock manifolds, I changed my mind and went with headers. All in stainless with 62 mm pipes to the back. It turned out very well and I can even remove all the plugs except the left side rear (number 7) from above.
Exhaust
Got together with some other Interceptors owners here and had a small series of custom exhaust systems made. Zombie was the Job 1 prototype. After initially deciding to go with the stock manifolds, I changed my mind and went with headers. All in stainless with 62 mm pipes to the back. It turned out very well and I can even remove all the plugs except the left side rear (number 7) from above.
- Attachments
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- Photo 07.09.22, 19 00 16 (2).jpg (185.1 KiB) Viewed 382 times
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- IMG_5613.jpg (342.07 KiB) Viewed 382 times
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- Photo 07.09.22, 19 00 16.jpg (339.11 KiB) Viewed 382 times
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- IMG_7648.jpg (361.62 KiB) Viewed 382 times
- americanjohn
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 12:09 pm
- Location: Düsseldorf, Germany
Re: Zombie 133 5709
BTW Guys, the rear springs have since settled considerably. They are still somewhat high maybe 4-5 cm / 1.5-2" but I think this will also come into place. I loaded a stack of tires and rims into the boot for a couple of months, took them out and climbed in to do some trampoline work with my own body weight. That did the trick.Dino Fritz wrote: ↑Fri Dec 10, 2021 11:40 pm Agree with all the comments so far - don’t worry about the ride height until you have ALL of the weight back on the car, and at the back, you still have a lot of weight to still add on (rear window, interior, etc). The mere fact that you have been able to connect the spring to the shackles (plus they’re the old springs and they were fine before) tells me you’ll be okay.
My dad was a baker, so at the time I threw 10x 25kg sugar bags in the back and that told me everything would be fine - just add ballast to the boot to test (concrete bags, tool boxes, etc).
Dino
Re: Zombie 133 5709
Nice work on welding up those headers.
Let us know how you like them!
The collector has to angle out, quite differently than the headers for a basic Mopar, because of those chassis tubes…
Did you also custom make the down pipes?
Rocky
Let us know how you like them!
The collector has to angle out, quite differently than the headers for a basic Mopar, because of those chassis tubes…
Did you also custom make the down pipes?
Rocky
‘71 TVR Vixen 2500 - (M Series Tribute)
'72 Interceptor III - 133/5597
'73 DeTomaso Pantera
'74 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ-40
'95 Jaguar XJS Convertible
'72 Interceptor III - 133/5597
'73 DeTomaso Pantera
'74 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ-40
'95 Jaguar XJS Convertible
- americanjohn
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 12:09 pm
- Location: Düsseldorf, Germany
Re: Zombie 133 5709
Hi Rocky, sure wish I could weld like that. A very knowledgeable young lady at the shop built the entire system from scratch, including the mufflers. I told them "not too loud", but it still has a solid bark. I extended the muffler hangers and lowered the pipes around 3/4". Felt they were a little too close to the floorboards and wanted some play. It's all very stiff, hope it doesn't shake the header bolts loose over time. Also added the aluminum heat shields to diffuse the heat more. Before these changes the sound deadening / heat insulation on the inside of the car was getting soft when I run the engine.
- americanjohn
- Posts: 69
- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 12:09 pm
- Location: Düsseldorf, Germany
Re: Zombie 133 5709
First Start
Started the engine for the first time back in May. With the modifications for the FiTech EFI and performance ignition, I was nervous about how this would go for years. Turned the key and it fired instantly, ran a few seconds and died. Cranked it again, this time longer and it fired right back up. During the break-in we discovered 2 minor issues: the torque converter bolts were interfering with the dust cover (sounded worse that it was) so I removed it for now. The company that supplied the new forged steel crankshaft put a 6 bolt hemi pattern on back of it so we had to use a hemi flexplate. Although all other dimensions are the same, the bolt spread is slightly wider than with a 5 bolt RB block. Hoping a hemi dust cover will fit properly. Also, the left side valve cover had a larger leak so the oil was running down onto the exhaust on #7 and creating pretty noxious smoke, which the fans would then blow straight into my face (windshield not in yet). The good news is that the original fan circuit is working properly (I didn't use EFI to control fans).
Started the engine for the first time back in May. With the modifications for the FiTech EFI and performance ignition, I was nervous about how this would go for years. Turned the key and it fired instantly, ran a few seconds and died. Cranked it again, this time longer and it fired right back up. During the break-in we discovered 2 minor issues: the torque converter bolts were interfering with the dust cover (sounded worse that it was) so I removed it for now. The company that supplied the new forged steel crankshaft put a 6 bolt hemi pattern on back of it so we had to use a hemi flexplate. Although all other dimensions are the same, the bolt spread is slightly wider than with a 5 bolt RB block. Hoping a hemi dust cover will fit properly. Also, the left side valve cover had a larger leak so the oil was running down onto the exhaust on #7 and creating pretty noxious smoke, which the fans would then blow straight into my face (windshield not in yet). The good news is that the original fan circuit is working properly (I didn't use EFI to control fans).