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FF 127/243 for sale

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by Jens » Thu Feb 20, 2020 12:50 pm

I am reluctantly selling my 1970 FF II.

In Ulric's "320 Short Stories" it is the "Miss World Car" because of the first owner Eric Morley, founder of the "Miss World Contest".

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The car is in my ownership for 8 years now, has always been a pleasure to drive.

Last year, after returning from the bi-annual TÜV (similar to MOT) which it passed without any advisories it caught fire to to a sudden leak in the fuel line while parking in front of my house. I was able to kill the fire immediately with a fire extinguisher I always have in my cars.

The 20-second fire destroyed parts of the wiring loom, tubes and brake fluid reservoirs, the paint on the bonnet and the right wing and some more minor parts.

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I have started to dismantle the engine bay and it turned out that there is some work to do. Unfortunately this will exceed my time and my financial powers so I have decided to give the car into the hands of someone who is looking for a good base FF to bring it to the highest standard.

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Car is absolutely complete, everything was working fine, interior was NOT affected by the fire (the fire wall did its job), so were the wheels, tires, engine, suspension, A/C, radiator, oil cooler, gearbox etc. Maxaret system and brake servo are complete but I will let them refurbish if requested.

A new paint is necessary.

More pictures on request. Please let me know what you would like to see.

Asking price is 47.500 GBP ono
In order of appearance:

C-V8 Mk III 112/2432
541 S 102/1035

(sold) FF MkII 127/243 (sold)
Healey Mk II 1140/14406
Jensen GT 1610/30257
Scimitar GTE SE5
Gordon Keeble #21
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by Oxymoron » Thu Feb 20, 2020 3:58 pm

Hi
Aren't you able to have the repairs paid for by your insurance company as a fire damage claim?
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by Mark1Stu » Thu Feb 20, 2020 7:03 pm

Sorry to read of the accident to your FF Jens and your decision to sell. Hope you find a suitable new custodian for it in the near future.

Best wishes.

Stuart
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by Martin R » Fri Feb 21, 2020 4:18 am

:( :( :(
FF MK1 119/100
Interceptor MK3 136/8514
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by Joerg » Fri Feb 21, 2020 6:51 am

Sometimes insurance companies are a real pain to deal with :-(
The first one: EA 7000
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by Frankoid » Fri Feb 21, 2020 7:52 am

Very sorry to see this happen to your beautiful car Jens, at least the fire has been confined to this small area. A cautionary tale, I had a lucky escape when I was looking at my engine running and saw what I thought was a water leak. On closer inspection I saw a clear liquid squirting from near the carburettor when I quickly realised it was PETROL :shock: ! I turned off the engine and mopped up the fuel that was by then about to hit the exhaust manifold. A bit of (non original) flexible fuel pipe to the carb had gone brittle and split causing this leak. I replaced the fuel lines pretty sharpish after this... If I had not been gazing at my engine ticking away this would not have had an happy ending.
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by VFK44 » Fri Feb 21, 2020 11:21 am

Brake fluid is even more likely to cause a fire than petrol. Make sure there are no leaks near hot objects. Silicone brake fluid is safer in this respect.
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by AH1951 » Fri Feb 21, 2020 1:21 pm

I know you drink a little brake fluid every day.
You are addicted to it.
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by VFK44 » Fri Feb 21, 2020 1:43 pm

I know you drink a little brake fluid every day.
You are addicted to it
.

Maybe.
But I can stop any time I like!

ba-dum tssh!!
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by Frankoid » Fri Feb 21, 2020 1:56 pm

:D
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by Jens » Sat Feb 22, 2020 2:06 pm

SOLD 8)
In order of appearance:

C-V8 Mk III 112/2432
541 S 102/1035

(sold) FF MkII 127/243 (sold)
Healey Mk II 1140/14406
Jensen GT 1610/30257
Scimitar GTE SE5
Gordon Keeble #21
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by Joerg » Sat Feb 22, 2020 9:20 pm

:D That was fast.
The first one: EA 7000
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by johnw » Mon Feb 24, 2020 10:01 pm

It would be good to have the exact pipe duplicated in steel or stainless. There are pre made pipes from Jegs but not for the 383. Another issue is the mechanical fuel pump, which is available with fittings pointing in every direction, except the one you need. Almost every running car has had the pipework hacked because ethenol/ old age has killed off the old fuel pump. The same is now rotting the rubber pipework. Given how many people swap the fuel pump and install a modern Carter or Weber AFB, you would imagine fuel pump and pipework to a new carb, all ethenol resistant, would prove a popular special.
Frankoid wrote:On closer inspection I saw a clear liquid squirting from near the carburettor when I quickly realised it was PETROL :shock: ! I turned off the engine and mopped up the fuel that was by then about to hit the exhaust manifold. A bit of (non original) flexible fuel pipe to the carb had gone brittle and split causing this leak. I replaced the fuel lines pretty sharpish after this... If I had not been gazing at my engine ticking away this would not have had an happy ending.
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by Frankoid » Tue Feb 25, 2020 8:25 am

johnw wrote:It would be good to have the exact pipe duplicated in steel or stainless. There are pre made pipes from Jegs but not for the 383. Another issue is the mechanical fuel pump, which is available with fittings pointing in every direction, except the one you need. Almost every running car has had the pipework hacked because ethenol/ old age has killed off the old fuel pump. The same is now rotting the rubber pipework. Given how many people swap the fuel pump and install a modern Carter or Weber AFB, you would imagine fuel pump and pipework to a new carb, all ethenol resistant, would prove a popular special.

I now have an electric Holley red pump with a 6mm copper pipe to the carb, but it still has flexible connections.. I may try to solder one end to the carb banjo coupling...
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by johnw » Tue Feb 25, 2020 12:33 pm

Frankoid wrote: I now have an electric Holley red pump with a 6mm copper pipe to the carb, but it still has flexible connections.. I may try to solder one end to the carb banjo coupling...

I have never had fuel delivery issues until the pumps die (15 years+), or poor starting due to the mech fuel pump so stuck with mechanical. Copper seems a practical material to work with, and the mechanical pump is obviously bolted to the block, so little to no flex between the pump output and the carb. I have an original intact pipe to copy and was thinking of making a complete replica with flared ends, in stainless tube. I will probably keep dreaming about that and go with a practical copper pipe and Banjo fitting as you suggest!
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