There are numerous small parts on the early Interceptor that could do with finishing in some way, clevis pins and yokes at the end of brake rods, small levers in the ventilation system, that sort of thing, and painting probably won't work (they can be a tight fit with other parts and the paint rubs off). I was thinking about nickel plating. Hard core DIYers reckon you can do this entirely under your own steam by buying things from DIY stores and supermarkets (and scavenging bits from their sheds, but I haven't got a shed) but there are kits on the market with everything needed in them, for example https://www.classic-plating.co.uk/produ ... ating-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; , but does anyone have any experience of these, do they do what the makers say they will do?
John
Nickel Plating Kits
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- JOC C-V8 Registrar
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Nickel Plating Kits
Early Interceptor INT885347
C-V8 Mk111 112/2334
C-V8 Mk111 112/2334
Re: Nickel Plating Kits
I bought a kit and it can be done but is a lot of messing about with some nasty chemicals, after doing a few parts I found it much easier to send them for plating.
Its also quite cheap compared with chroming.
Its also quite cheap compared with chroming.
Dave Pearce
Oily Rag Classics
Jensen FF 119/133
Jensen FF 119/182
Jensen Interceptor III 128/4430
Oily Rag Classics
Jensen FF 119/133
Jensen FF 119/182
Jensen Interceptor III 128/4430
Re: Nickel Plating Kits
That gold colour you see on new bolts on cars John.. it is gold or silver passivate, it is quite a cheap process to have done,.. as Dave says though it's not worth all the grief of trying to do it yourself with the chemicals, you can get a bucket of stuff done quite cheaply at the platers... but it doesn't really last that long either obviously all-depending on the weather conditions it is put through. I guess not that's not really an answer.. but it is another option
Manual Int&Rag-Top
"Monkey Man"sig Registrar
"Monkey Man"sig Registrar
Re: Nickel Plating Kits
Hi
I used the zinc plating kit from theses guys (https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index. ... uct_id=231" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). They were very helpful with advice and provide all the gear (with instructions) at a decent price. As with everything preparation and cleanliness is the key. I even made a small basket out of titanium wire to put the nuts and bolts in. There is also a nice article in Practical Classics on "electroplating at home" from July 2016. PM me if you want a pdf copy.
Phil
I used the zinc plating kit from theses guys (https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index. ... uct_id=231" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). They were very helpful with advice and provide all the gear (with instructions) at a decent price. As with everything preparation and cleanliness is the key. I even made a small basket out of titanium wire to put the nuts and bolts in. There is also a nice article in Practical Classics on "electroplating at home" from July 2016. PM me if you want a pdf copy.
Phil
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Joint Southern Area Rep
J.O.C. Member 10659
1956 Jensen 541 95-5633
1961 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
1961 Volvo 131 Amazon - a Survivor
1968 Volvo 1800S
1969 Mk II Interceptor 123/3588 - Now sold
J.O.C. Member 10659
1956 Jensen 541 95-5633
1961 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
1961 Volvo 131 Amazon - a Survivor
1968 Volvo 1800S
1969 Mk II Interceptor 123/3588 - Now sold
- VFK44
- Co-Administrator
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Re: Nickel Plating Kits
I love the basket you created. In the 1950s there was a British sculptor called Reg Butler, who owned a Jensen. This is his most famous work:
Seriously, there is a big difference between nickel and zinc plating, due to their postions in the reactivity scale. Place nickel and steel together in a wet environment and the steel will corrode to prevent the nickel from being damaged. With zinc and steel, the zinc is the sacrificial metal and it will protect the steel. So, with nickel you must ensure that the steel is completely plated - no pinpricks uncoated - and that it is never damaged, as a small scratch will cause the steel to rapidly rust and break through the rest of the nickel. It is thus best suited to areas where the condition of the part is easily and regularly assessed, where it can be a stunningly attractive and longlasting finish that can be cheaply applied in a home workshop. If you are hoping for a "fit and forget" that will protect the steel, best go for zinc.
Do you think he was aiming to plate some nuts and bolts?Seriously, there is a big difference between nickel and zinc plating, due to their postions in the reactivity scale. Place nickel and steel together in a wet environment and the steel will corrode to prevent the nickel from being damaged. With zinc and steel, the zinc is the sacrificial metal and it will protect the steel. So, with nickel you must ensure that the steel is completely plated - no pinpricks uncoated - and that it is never damaged, as a small scratch will cause the steel to rapidly rust and break through the rest of the nickel. It is thus best suited to areas where the condition of the part is easily and regularly assessed, where it can be a stunningly attractive and longlasting finish that can be cheaply applied in a home workshop. If you are hoping for a "fit and forget" that will protect the steel, best go for zinc.
"Now that chassis number is particularly interesting ‘cos it’s the one after the one before, which is the one after mine, not many people know that"
Stephen, Epping, Essex
Stephen, Epping, Essex