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February 2020

Tim Waller - Interceptor MKIII

Tim Waller - Interceptor MKIII

by KaranMK2 » Mon Feb 03, 2020 8:47 am

Car of the month belongs to Tim Waller. I am continuously astonished by the time and dedication that owners of our cars put into their vehicles. As an owner myself I am fully aware of the challenges and heartaches that ownership entails. I met Tim Waller and saw his fantastic car a few years ago. I asked Tim if he would give an update of his work as his car was featured before on our site. Over Christmas and in January, Tim has produced a fantastic piece that follows below. Apologies for the size of the photos, however, I have included links to Flicker and Dropbox for those wanting to see more.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fyvl535p4sffaqe/AABFkIG1ZqegzniWy-oupFDwa?dl=0

https://www.flickr.com/gp/105796573@N05/43915v

1973 Interceptor - 6 Year Update

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When Karan asked me for a ‘small write up with photos’ as an update to my 2013 article in the JOC magazine about completing a restoration, I thought maybe a page or two. It is good to keep a log and take lots of photos to be reminded of the effort it takes to keep the beast alive. Much of the list was not anticipated as apparently the clock runs out on a number of things at around 70,000 miles or 45 years. With no restoration background, I was saved by a lot of fine people who share their experience and expertise on our forum and in person and other skilled tradesmen who enjoy the challenge of a rare find like a Jensen.

So here are the highlights from six years after the restoration:

1. After my last Fleetwood Mac tape tied itself in a knot, I replaced the Lear-Jet with an Alpine head unit and Kenwood amplifier with new speakers and big subwoofers jammed into the rear quarter panels. New walnut console veneer by Madera in California.
This is not the best use of restoration money if you also have a loud exhaust…

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2. Removed and recolored all the leather and replaced carpet to match the ‘dark graphite metallic’ paint. Leather paint was SEM Sure-Coat water based ‘midnight black’, carpet was ‘dark slate’ from AutoMat in Hicksville, New York. Leather painting is not difficult, just average attention to detail and fear of failure is needed. I had never considered doing it myself until the guy I hired quit, then showed me in detail how to do it. There are still genuinely great people you can be lucky enough to find!

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3. Added StreetWires ZERONoise sound deadener (the cheaper alternative) all around and Luxury Liner/38 dense foam to floors under carpet. Can still hear the deep rumble of the tailpipes, but comfortably quiet with the windows up.

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4. Added keyless entry with left door solenoids and brackets from Appleyards and a VIPER 211HV controller.

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Really nice to have and works fairly often.

5. Changed fan controller from a Derale on/off to the Autocoolguys 50A PWM noBuzz controller. What a name! It uses 12V pulses of varying lengths to control the fan speed. Gets rid of current surges and blown fuses. Runs off the temperature of the radiator water exit pipe. Removing supports for the old brake fluid reservoirs left room to hide new busy fan controller box behind the servo on the firewall.
After using it for 2 seasons, have found a design issue that may plague other PWM systems. It needs to also know the engine temperature, not just the radiator’s, to better control the fans. Looking into an add-on circuit to correct these problems - more on that later.

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6. Replaced radiator with a 2 row aluminum clone of the original made by Griffin Radiator with bigger tranny fluid connectors – big improvement. It’s the nicest looking thing in the car that you can’t see.

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7. Replaced the 4 Zirgo radiator fans after 10,000 miles as 2 had died. A most unimpressive fan, actually. Looking for a quality alternative.

8. Replaced original front springs with a MK2 springs to drop the front one inch to the old spec. Too many iron-to-aluminum performance replacements made it look ready to launch. It would dart noticeably in the wind over 60mph. Before and after shots:

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9. Replaced/restored most all of the lights - the interior and non-driving lights with LED - the headlamps with new Koito’s, on 3 new relays.

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10. Adjusted idle solenoid and idle speed. I had forgotten about these with all the other changes made. The alternator was not effective at 650RPM idle set at the shop, and needed to be at 850RPM. At idle with the AC running it cut out totally. The idle solenoid is very easy to adjust so the idle RPM stays higher, 1100RPM in my case, to provide enough voltage to keep the fans running on a very hot day to keep the engine cool enough not to overheat and split the heater matrix if you put the wrong pressure cap on the radiator overflow tank...it’s all connected, as they say.

11. Speaking of the heater matrix - thanks to D. Robinson’s y2015 post on the JOC site, Mike Johnson, owner of Iron Mike’s Garage, was able to do the replacement from the engine bay side.

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12. Replaced all rear axle and differential bearings that failed 400 miles from home. In the Jenseney way, it insured that we would not fully enjoy the beautiful spring drive in the mountains with friends. Hopefully the new ones will outlive me. After destroying the expensive wheel puller he borrowed from a friend, a vexed Mike at Iron Mike’s needed to torch and press the rear wheels out with 20 tons of air pressure. He politely mentions this on each return visit. Sometimes he works in something about the heater matrix affair.

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13. Powder coated the 2 side vent panels and headlamp surrounds, easier to clean.
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14. Replaced the hardened leaking plastic fuel hoses between the tank and the expansion tank with standard fuel hose. Everyone should check these, please, along with the plastic return hose from the engine!

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15. Much fiddling with the boot latch to make it work smoother.

16. Repair of loose hatch support arm to stop cutting into boot side vinyl.

17. Many applications of viscous wicking sealant for windscreen after new seal installed, still defiantly leaking.

18 Added a fine mesh filter from Year One to the fuel intake pipe that is reported to pick up more of the remaining fuel when the tank is near empty. Who knows if it helps. Not an exciting project, but feeling mildly better for having done it.

19. New optima red battery, MSD high torque starter. I miss the Chrysler signature whine.

20. New radiator overflow tank cap with Stant 11229 13lb. Could the prior 19lb cap have contributed to the cracked heater matrix?

21. Disassemble and cleaned various switches with fiberglass pencil, lube with NO-OX-ID A-SPECIAL R-3266 L1 per JOC posting; toss the conductive or graphite silicon – pure garbage – hardens over time!

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22. Repaired cracked header pipe following exhaust collision with speed bump.

23. Cracked spring pan repaired – see what appears to be missing gap welds in originals (see paper).
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24. Added headlamp spacers and the missing bezels for the “JENSEN” insignia on the pillars.

25. Replaced 100A alternator with Tuff Stuff Performance 130A and added required heat shielding between its built-in voltage regulator and the nearby headers.

26. Replaced the rusted-out aerial/motor with a new style Hirschmann 5061. The old metal body acted as ground, so there was no return ground wire. Not so with the new plastic bodied one. You can use the original switch to deal with this by shorting pins 1 to 8, 2 to 7, and 3 to ground.

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27. Replaced leaky brake fluid reservoir setup with NOS Wagner 1991 VW Fox that fits master cylinder. No leaks now!

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28. Modified the tail pipe hangers with a bolt all the way through the rubber. The glued-on plates snap off after a few years of shaking.

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29. Replaced speedo pinion seal and O-ring, windshield wipers, starter solenoid, steering coupler, sill plates, deteriorated wiper motor mounts, valve cover gaskets, fuel filler neck, oil pressure sender, and brake light and emergency brake light nylon switches.

A question is - do I enjoy the car more after all this? Oh heck yes! Forget the maintenance – that has to be done. Anything making it better sounding, quicker, nimbler, better looking, more reliable, and looks reasonably original is all good! The leather re-color, fan controller, aluminum radiator, brake reservoir, and front springs were the best of the lot.

Other than the ever-growing maintenance list, a future change might be the Silver Sport Transmissions (SST) adaptation of the Trimec 4 speed GM transmission for replacing the Chrysler A727. Better acceleration and overdrive that just “drops in” (really?) – what’s not to love!!

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by Robinson D » Fri Feb 14, 2020 1:22 am

Very nice and quite practical (by Jensen standards). Like the VW Fox reservoir.
Restoring a MKII, 125/5052
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by slotcarone » Fri Feb 14, 2020 4:13 am

Having spent some time with the Wallers in Vermont I can tell you they are great people and their Jensen looks and sounds awesome! Thanks for sharing Tim! :)
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by thomaslk » Fri Feb 14, 2020 8:04 pm

Nice reading. Is there any detailed info available about the Griffin aluminum radiator like art.no ?
rgds
Thomas
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by Wolfgang » Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:39 am

Nicely done - respect.

At the moment I'm on the same. The fan issue I solved by using 2 speed fans out of the actual Golf GTI edition with 180/360W each, connecting low speed to the existing system (want to keep all as original as possible), high speed will be connected via digital sensor placed somewhere in the iron cast of the engine, powered directly from the battery in order to keep the fans also blowing until the block has reached an adequate temperature after having stopped the car. Still waiting for response from Chevrolet where and how to place the sensor.

The reservoirs for brake fluid I only exchanged using different gaskets to avoid leaking )-I like the old style.

The carburetor - I'm still thinking about placing Weber's instead of the Holley (despite after complete refurbishment he's working quite good) but I miss the acceleration created by the Weber's thus having replaced the acceleration pump by a 50cc. But with the Weber's I'll end up in a neverending fight in synchronisation, I would have to thermally capsulate them completely and get the air intake from outside (means getting an air intake on the hood which will definitively not fit to distinguished Jensen style) and it's far away from the original, so next step I'll try an Edelbrock just having from another car...

The exhaust collector I'll keep, the rest will be replaced by Inox and thermally isolated.

Interior I also refurbished the leather instead of replacing - excellent result. The carpets I cleaned, they are looking quite well, at drivers side some leather repair on the mat placed on the carped in front of the throttle. Part of them cleaned in the washing machine of my wife... 8) :x :x

I have to fix the hood cover sheet with the stabilizer - any idea what to use therefore? Have you thermally isolated the hood from the inside? - I intend to do so.
On the passenger side the fixation of the spring damper of the hood is completely torn off the sheet, very strange? I've to weld it.

The suspension I'll go for the adaptive Bilsteins actually used also in the Mercedes GT black series in order to lower him down in front decently and to get a better performance of the rear axle without changing the character of the car.

The keyless go system is brilliant - need some more details :D
Just installed a bluetooth based sound system, keeping the old radio as fake, and naturally the aerial 8)

Have fun with your excellent nice Jensen.
Wolfgang
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by slotcarone » Sun Feb 16, 2020 12:45 pm

Wofgang that is a nice looking engine compartment! After reading your post I have one thought. You spoke about Mercedes shocks and lowering the front height. On these cars changing the shocks will not affect the ride height. I suspect on the Mercedes you are referring to the car has air suspension. :)
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by colin7673 » Sun Feb 16, 2020 3:59 pm

At the moment I'm on the same. The fan issue I solved by using 2 speed fans out of the actual Golf GTI edition with 180/360W each, connecting low speed to the existing system (want to keep all as original as possible), high speed will be connected via digital sensor placed somewhere in the iron cast of the engine, powered directly from the battery in order to keep the fans also blowing until the block has reached an adequate temperature after having stopped the car. Still waiting for response from Chevrolet where and how to place the sensor.



You can have the fan 'running on' just by moving the wiring in the fuse box, please don't ask which one, but it really is a two-second job.

My fans never use to 'Run On' I have an mk111 when I changed the fans to twin speed, I now have an override switch in the cabin for the second speed, but when I mentioned this to Kev and Appleyard, he just went to the fuse box, opened changed a lead, closed the fuse box and job done, they now 'overrun' when the engine is switched off.
Only working half a day now.
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by colin7673 » Sun Feb 16, 2020 4:00 pm

At the moment I'm on the same. The fan issue I solved by using 2 speed fans out of the actual Golf GTI edition with 180/360W each, connecting low speed to the existing system (want to keep all as original as possible), high speed will be connected via digital sensor placed somewhere in the iron cast of the engine, powered directly from the battery in order to keep the fans also blowing until the block has reached an adequate temperature after having stopped the car. Still waiting for response from Chevrolet where and how to place the sensor.



You can have the fan 'running on' just by moving the wiring in the fuse box, please don't ask which one, but it really is a two-second job.

My fans never use to 'Run On' I have an mk111 when I changed the fans to twin speed, I now have an override switch in the cabin for the second speed, but when I mentioned this to Kev at Appleyard, he just went to the fuse box, opened, changed a lead, closed the fuse box and job done, they now 'overrun' when the engine is switched off, if needed
Only working half a day now.
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by Wolfgang » Sun Feb 16, 2020 5:49 pm

colin7673 wrote:
At the moment I'm on the same. The fan issue I solved by using 2 speed fans out of the actual Golf GTI edition with 180/360W each, connecting low speed to the existing system (want to keep all as original as possible), high speed will be connected via digital sensor placed somewhere in the iron cast of the engine, powered directly from the battery in order to keep the fans also blowing until the block has reached an adequate temperature after having stopped the car. Still waiting for response from Chevrolet where and how to place the sensor.



You can have the fan 'running on' just by moving the wiring in the fuse box, please don't ask which one, but it really is a two-second job.

My fans never use to 'Run On' I have an mk111 when I changed the fans to twin speed, I now have an override switch in the cabin for the second speed, but when I mentioned this to Kev at Appleyard, he just went to the fuse box, opened, changed a lead, closed the fuse box and job done, they now 'overrun' when the engine is switched off, if needed


many thanks,
I really like these discussions in the forum, being still a learner about the Jensen. The idea behind the system I intend to implement is to have redundancy and 2 independent measurement systems.

The existing system seems 'as following the blogs' a little bit fragile and refers to only one sensor placed in the tube behind the cooler, means after the water pump stops not giving real value of the engine temp. I'd like to have an information of the real iron cast temperature preferably from one of the hottest spots, quite for sure different to the average water temp.

So if the fuse is going, or the existing system is on malfunction, there is still the safety of a redundant system. By referring to the iron cast temperature the fans are delivering air flow as long as the engine is out of every critical temperature.

In addition you may get digital information via bluetooth to any device about the iron cast temp, not only an analogous estimate from the existing instrument. The sensor is replacing a screw M6 or M8 somewhere in the block, so installation is also easy. I used it several times on big block V8's, gives additional safety at reasonable cost.

Have a nice evening
Wolfgang
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by Wolfgang » Sun Feb 16, 2020 6:00 pm

slotcarone wrote:Wofgang that is a nice looking engine compartment! After reading your post I have one thought. You spoke about Mercedes shocks and lowering the front height. On these cars changing the shocks will not affect the ride height. I suspect on the Mercedes you are referring to the car has air suspension. :)


Hi,

since not being a long time owner of a Jensen, but since starting with refurbishment getting more and more amazed about the 'Diva' I had only some test roll outs, I found the feed back from the road, this may change when having longer stints - so I asked Bilstein if a spring-damper configuration similar to the AMG GT 700 black series may be possible, despite the facts of much more mass on the front axle and a stiff axle as configurated in the rear. After having submitted the technical data and measurements they mentioned that it may be possible, but for further steps they have to inspect the car, so this is only a part of my 'wishlist', I'm astonished that lowering should not be possible with a customized undercarriage/suspension system like that - but I always admire the profound knowledge in this forum.

Thinking to shift these discussions to another topic, this here is Tim's presentation of his car, only wanted to show that I'm planning similar improvements to an outstanding car.

Best
Wolfgang
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by 73nrceptor » Wed Mar 18, 2020 1:19 pm

thomaslk wrote:Is there any detailed info available about the Griffin aluminum radiator like art.no ?
rgds
Thomas


Sorry for not responding sooner. Griffin Radiator http://www.griffinrad.com/ built the radiator off an original one but made the tranny line connections bigger and lowered the top of the filler cap to not hit the bonnet liner. It is 2 row aluminum for better air flow and an obvious improvement in cooling. It's about the same price as the aluminum one offered by Martin Robey so maybe shipping is a factor depending on your location.
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by 73nrceptor » Wed Mar 18, 2020 1:43 pm

Wolfgang wrote:The keyless go system is brilliant - need some more details :D

The inspiration and many details came from http://www.jensenmondayclub.co.uk/, who have generously provided a treasure trove of restoration guides and ideas. It is easily translated to a LHD car. My photos are here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsjXmNfiM. I got the LHD locks and brackets from Appleyards and used a VIPER 211HV controller. It was a 'no frills' installation using only lock/unlock with no flashing/honking etc. Most any decent controller should work.
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by Wolfgang » Wed Mar 25, 2020 6:07 am

73nrceptor wrote:
Wolfgang wrote:The keyless go system is brilliant - need some more details :D

The inspiration and many details came from http://www.jensenmondayclub.co.uk/, who have generously provided a treasure trove of restoration guides and ideas. It is easily translated to a LHD car. My photos are here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsjXmNfiM. I got the LHD locks and brackets from Appleyards and used a VIPER 211HV controller. It was a 'no frills' installation using only lock/unlock with no flashing/honking etc. Most any decent controller should work.


Many thanks Tim,

sorry for late reply, but Corona paralyzises us completely here in Belgium, my employees in Quarantine, me as well because one of them was tested positive. With Nick from appleyards I'm in contact, he should now be in Australia if he has taken the turn despite of Corona.

Another question: where the hazard relay is situated? Last time driving in the rain the whole electric went down and the hazard flashers out of function.

Great car you're having - well done.
Best wishes
Wolfgang
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by 73nrceptor » Wed Mar 25, 2020 11:56 am

Wolfgang wrote:
73nrceptor wrote:
Wolfgang wrote:
Another question: where the hazard relay is situated? Last time driving in the rain the whole electric went down and the hazard flashers out of function.

It is attached to the back wall with the turn signal flasher in the little compartment between the door and the steering wheel stuffed with wires.

The Corona thing is taking a toll from all. Wish you and yours all the best with it. Wife and I stuck inside but making face masks and 3D printed face shields due to unbelievable shortages of everything for hospitals.
Tim Waller
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by Wolfgang » Wed Mar 25, 2020 11:33 pm

Many thanks Tim,

my wife is doing home office, I'm staying idle, polishing and show tuning the car of my wife. By luck we're living in rural area, so distance is not an issue for us. But keeping distance to our nice neighbours, not being invited by the weekend, not cooking at home with friends is very strange. Shopping in times of shortage of flour, water and even toilet paper I've never faced in my lifetime. We're also wearing masks and gloves, last time trying to refuel one of our cars we failed at 2 stations, no fuel! We're now equipped to maintain our living style for about 2-3 weeks without shopping - the deep freezer is our new best friend.

All our motorsport events in the nearby future cancelled - a very different way of life nowadays.

Best to your wife and you - and stay healthy.
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