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V-8 Engine Tech

Non starting MK1 383

Mopar Big Block Talk

by Frankoid » Mon Oct 28, 2019 9:07 am

The fuel tank isn’t connected, fuel line stop half down the car before it reaches the tank....

Thanks Luke


Have you set up a temporary tank with a fuel line to the fuel pump? It may be worth trying an electric pump as you don't have to keep turning the engine to get fuel to the carb. Or fit above the engine a small tank with a gravity fed pipe direct to the carb, and ready with the CO2! Personally I would make sure the original tank was good then re-connect it with a new pump, pipes and filters.
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by johnw » Mon Oct 28, 2019 11:24 am

Frankoid wrote:
The fuel tank isn’t connected, fuel line stop half down the car before it reaches the tank....

Thanks Luke


Have you set up a temporary tank with a fuel line to the fuel pump? It may be worth trying an electric pump as you don't have to keep turning the engine to get fuel to the carb. Or fit above the engine a small tank with a gravity fed pipe direct to the carb, and ready with the CO2! Personally I would make sure the original tank was good then re-connect it with a new pump, pipes and filters.


All good tips there. At this point I would guess that you have not fuelled the carb properly and been able to see those squirts form the accelerator pump.

You can also put fuel in the tank, look for leaks underneath, take the plugs out, crank the engine over, and with the fuel pipe to the carb disconnected you should see lots of nice clean fuel emerge where you need it. I would not convert to an electric pump, new mechanical ones are only $30 from Summit racing and they ship to the UK. Of course a new pump and filter are a good idea but I bet you can't wait that long [3 or 4 days] for the post can you! :D :D :D
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by rta50car » Mon Oct 28, 2019 12:03 pm

Take out 2 plugs from each side and lay them out still connected to leads. Turn engine over and check closely to see if they are producing spark. If they are put them back in. Most likely all of them are sparking. Put some juice down the carb. Have someone key the starter and gently press accelerator while you rotate dizzy in advance and retard. Seems like you have tried everything else. AS mentioned earlier use a coil with built in resistor. I use Bosch SU 12 (12 volt).
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by johnw » Mon Oct 28, 2019 7:24 pm

Just remembered a video of the 440 we started a couple of months ago without silencers on. :D. Great way to wake up a sleepy Swiss villiage!
Anyway, we used a clear plastic tube and a funnel tied above the engine to fill the carb. That way there is not a lot of fuel about and you can see the fuel level easily.
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by Grant » Mon Oct 28, 2019 7:46 pm

johnw wrote:Just remembered a video of the 440 we started a couple of months ago without silencers on. :D. Great way to wake up a sleepy Swiss villiage!
Anyway, we used a clear plastic tube and a funnel tied above the engine to fill the carb. That way there is not a lot of fuel about and you can see the fuel level easily.

ImageAnd the video is where John?.. Do we have to come to your house to see it?Image
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by cannonball » Mon Oct 28, 2019 8:24 pm

Junk that boat anchor 383 and fit a hot 440, :wink:
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by Grant » Mon Oct 28, 2019 8:43 pm

cannonball wrote:Junk that boat anchor 383 and fit a hot 440, :wink:

Image.. don't worry about old Dunc and his comments Lukey, I'll be seeing him soonishImage
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by Robinson D » Tue Oct 29, 2019 1:00 am

561 HP boat anchor.
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by money_one_four » Tue Oct 29, 2019 10:38 am

Lukey have you tried putting a 12 volt feed direct to the coil as you may well have a spark but not a strong enough one under compression. Check your battery terminals are not getting too hot if they are you have to much resistance somewhere, take a earth strap from engine to chassis see if this helps getting it turning faster
I think you need to recheck the distributor setting seeing you have had this out , also all you need is a couple of sniffs of easy start into the carb to make it fire and run for a few seconds, you can sort the fuel issues after you know the rest is right.
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by johnw » Tue Oct 29, 2019 1:40 pm

Grant wrote:
cannonball wrote:Junk that boat anchor 383 and fit a hot 440, :wink:

Image.. don't worry about old Dunc and his comments Lukey, I'll be seeing him soonishImage

I'm planning a trip to blighty. Have you got Betamax Grant, I could show you that vid? No crummy VHS boat anchors here.

Seriously though, 383's are where it is at. If I had a Ferrari that sounded as good as my 383, I would be a very rich man!!!
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by johnw » Tue Oct 29, 2019 1:43 pm

Talking of money, Money_one_Four in particular, I would stick 12 directly to the coil as he suggests.
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by lukey » Tue Oct 29, 2019 6:59 pm

We’ve come to the conclusion the start Motor has had it, and. It’s just not turning quick enough. I’m trying to attach a short video below


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by RAP72 » Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:13 pm

Luke

not sure we can do videos within the Forum! However, if you can upload to UTube and then put a link that should work.
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by johnw » Wed Oct 30, 2019 9:40 am

I see you have the original steel pipe to the mechanical fuel pump. Look after that pipe, don't butcher it. The repro ones all come in the wrong shape and fitment. If you change the carb, keep the old pipe intact, make a new pipe until you order the correct adapter. Cars do seem to be catching fire when people use rubber or non standard pipes past the exhaust.

I note you have no coolant in the radiator. I would fill it with Antifreeze if starting. Winter is coming [haha]. I have been told that the blocks can sometimes crack if you fill with just tap water and then leave it, just by disconnecting the radiator hose with water still in the block, the block can sometimes crack near the main galley???

When I test started the 440 the other month, I had the coil [standard no ballast version] direct to the battery with those crock clips, and had a jump lead connected to the starter motor, by a carefully constructed lead that avoids shorting onto the chassis. I was bypassing the starter relay, ignition key etc completely. As the engine fired up, the remains of old fuel in the tank was pumped out by the mechanical fuel pump onto the floor through the disconnected fuel outlet.

The main benefit of the motor turning quickly is if you are priming the fuel pump, which we weren't as we filled the carb with fuel using a clear plastic tube and funnel. I don;t think started motor speed is significant.

The main benefit of this engine test will be psychological on yourself. It is a major, major boost.
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by Chris_R » Wed Oct 30, 2019 10:35 am

The original starter motors don't turn the engines very quickly, not like a modern car at all. Some people fit so called fast-wind starter motors which sound like they're turning the engine more quickly. I'm not sure if they do or not.
You've had lots of advice and comments here which in my view take you from one thing to another without any logical progression. Internal combustion engines are really quite simple. All they need is fuel and a spark at the right time to make it go bang but there are quite tight tolerances within these things and if something is slightly off then it will not run very well or not at all.
Go right back to the basics and go through methodically. Start with valve timing on the timing chain, make sure that is correct, then check the compression on each cylinder, then move on to ignition timing, make sure that is correct and you are getting a spark at the right time, move on to fuel, make sure it's getting enough but not too much. The fuel-air ratio is important. Too weak a mix, it won't fire, too rich a mix and it floods and it still won't fire. Find out how to set the carburetor correctly, there are books available on the Carter AFB or AVS (which you should have) carburetor. If it's turning over and not firing, but sounds like it is trying to fire then one of the things I have mentioned is not correct. You need to set this up methodically and logically, step by step, set one item and know it is set correctly, then move to the next and so on.
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