Cylinder Head

[Kris]

Hi everyone, my first post!! I have indavertently sheared a exhaiust manifold stud in the head, and have two more that are seized and I am concerned I might break these also, so have decided, before I do anymore damage, to take the heads off, get them to someone who knows what they are doing and at the same time, get the heads converted to unleaded. Has anyone got any specialists they can suggest in the UK?

[ChrisG]

Hi Kris

You could try Middlesex Reboring Co Ltd, Lawrence Street, Mill Hill, London NW7 4JH, 0208959 1352.

haven't used them recently but always top-notch in the past. You could give them a call first but I've always taken my bits in to show them what's required. They even successfully repaired a cracked 541 cylinder head for a member.

let me know if they can't help and I'll get you details of another outfit.

regards
Chris - your friendly N.London JOC Rep

[Chris_R]

You don't say what car the cylinder head is from. Not all need converting to unleaded as some are ready from the factory.

[Kris]

Thanks Gents, my Car is a 69 S1 FF, 119/150.
I am going to give it one more go with a drill guide and and helicoil kit I think, problem is I have broken off an easy-out in the stud, so really tough to drill out now.
Cheers
Kris

[Moparguy]

if a shop does Diesels , they can install hardened exhaust seats on a 440/383 .....maybe some new aluminum heads perhaps ?

[johnw]

Thanks Gents, my Car is a 69 S1 FF, 119/150.
I am going to give it one more go with a drill guide and and helicoil kit I think, problem is I have broken off an easy-out in the stud, so really tough to drill out now.
Cheers
Kris

Bit of an old thread come back to life now.

Anyway, I have been reading up on this, as the barn find project I have will likely have many seized bolts. More often than not, easyouts break like this it seems. Cannonball's idea on the other the other thread to weld is one idea. Build up 1/4" tower of weld, then weld a bar on, and tap it round with a hammer. A carbide end mill in a milling machine or very sturdy drill press can work, but the sides of the end mill get chipped as it breaks through the edges of the HSS EasyOut. To avoid that, sharpen a profile similar to a twist drill, on the end of a masonry drill. The normal stone drills from a hardware shop. Those spade shaped tips should be carbide inserts. This is less likely to break, and can slowly drill through the EasyOut! If it is just a broken stud, then presumably you can grind an anticlockwise profile on the masonary drill end, run it backwards, maybe even release the seized stud like that! I have never tried that last idea yet!

Hopefully by now you got this out. My FF had imperial allen bolts on the drivers side manifold rather than studs when I got it. It can be tricky getting the manifold on over studs at that side. Obviously the idea of studs is that the stud stays put! If the bolts are seized you can try slotting the sides with a dremel almost to the thread, then split with a fine screwdriver like chisel. No need to remove the stud if it is well in there and not damaged.