Correct me if I am wrong, but my take on what the extremely lengthy blog article advises "us" Mopar V8 owners to do, reading between the lines, is avoid breaking in oils just use an oil from the top of his list, normal synthetic or conventional oil when breaking in. High zinc content is irrelevant to old flat tappet engines, not good, not bad, irrelevant. Switch to a good modern grade, basically forget 20w50, synthetic like Mobil 1 or Amsol, not too thick a grade, watch hot oil pressure and choose viscosity (the 2nd number, the 30 in 5w30) based on that, 10 PSI per 1000 rpm minimum hot pressure being ideal, or closeish to that, switching to a Hi Volume Pump (and my advice by implication consider a hardened pump drive, both very easy inexpensive mods to do). We want a working oil temp of 215 to 250, He states that volume of oil through the engine is important, as it cools things, and that oils at the top of his list (predominantly almost but not all synthetics) offer the best wear protection (apart from one mineral oil with an additive, which might offer slightly less wear, but the additive has had longer term corrosion issues reported on the net). So providing you have the oil pressure, switching to a thinner synthetic benefits in cooling. A key thing in oil effectiveness is that it stays cool and works within its envelope, not too cool or too hot. Does anyone on here use 5w30 Synthetic and a high volume oil pump with 10 PSI per 1000 rpm?
With regard to the cheaper hydraulic roller lifters on ebay, this youtuber engine builder tells a tale of a cheap ebay roller lifter set losing the bar exactly like Rocky's post, and then wiping out a new cam on a Chevy, and spilling needle rollers in the engine.
https://youtu.be/D37BqV2v-eY?t=3734 I got suggested that vdieo by YT after watching this
https://youtu.be/xTsphmCn8mg?t=786Slightly related: Fire prevention using the oil pressure switch: One other thing we are moving back to, is a metal fuel line from the mechanical fuel pump to the carb to reduce fire risk, and renewing fuel pipe from filter to pump. Braided rubber hose for that seems like it might offer more protection than just rubber. Those with injection systems might want to drive their pump from a relay operated by the oil pressure switch, so that no oil pressure means no fuel. The fuel pump inlet is .32" just after the flare, so I guess their 1/4" fuel pipe pushes over to give a tight fit?