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V-8 Engine Tech

Coolant Filter

Mopar Big Block Talk

by JACB » Tue Jun 05, 2018 7:47 pm

Has anyone tried using one of the Champion Cooling Systems Coolant Filters?

According to Street Muscle Magazine http://www.streetmusclemag.com/news/installing-champion-cooling-aluminum-radiator-57-chevy/ even an engine that has just been rebuilt can have chunks of rust in its coolant passages that were loosened by the hot tank process. These filters catch these solids before they block a coolant passage in the radiator.

They can be seen on Champions websit https://shop.championcooling.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=Filter

My question is (when clean) do they significantly impede the coolant flow causing a rise in temperature.... again, has anyone tried one?

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Last edited by JACB on Wed Jun 06, 2018 1:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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by slotcarone » Tue Jun 05, 2018 8:40 pm

Has never been necessary in the past--why now!! :)
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by JACB » Wed Jun 06, 2018 1:37 am

slotcarone wrote:Has never been necessary in the past--why now!! :)

"Over Heating" and "Interceptor" go hand in hand ..... Could this have been exacerbated by "Crud" in the cooling system clogging the radiator over time? Something that we just hadn't thought about. Champion are in the Radiator Business and have seen fit to make this filter, maybe they know something we don't? If you fit a new radiator, this might be worth trying since it can always be removed if you don't like the look and your cooling system stays clean. They make it in White, Chrome & Black.
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by Joe Schiavone » Wed Jun 06, 2018 8:30 pm

Here in the states I purchased one but was sent a tube filter of a size smaller than the radiator hose. I feel it would have restricted the design flow of the engine. Did not use it. Once I figure how I can make the next size up I will probably will instill one. Since you can see it start to fill up with moving crud you can decide when flow is restricted. Racer Joe
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by JACB » Wed Jun 06, 2018 9:16 pm

Joe Schiavone wrote:Once I figure how I can make the next size up I will probably install one


I thought Champion make different sizes? https://shop.championcooling.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=Filter

Do they not make one that fits the Jensen radiator hose or are you saying you want to use your undersized item as a temporary measure to see what it catches?
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by Basil McKinley » Fri Jun 08, 2018 3:50 am

I have used an Australian made TEFBA coolant filter on my Interceptor for many years and have been very happy with it,

Regards,
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by JACB » Fri Jun 08, 2018 4:27 am

Basil McKinley wrote:I have used an Australian made TEFBA coolant filter on my Interceptor for many years and have been very happy with it,

Regards,
Basil

Hi Basil

Thanks for your post I hadn't heard about the TEFBA filter. Looks like a good option since you can clean it without draining the cooling system. Only downside is that you can't see what it has caught through a sight glass.

https://www.tefbafilters.com/order-a-tefba-filter.html
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by Joe Schiavone » Sat Jul 21, 2018 4:07 pm

My thoughts are that if you restrict the main flow size even for a short section then you may be restricting an already questionable flow to start with. Especially with adaquit cooling. I have AC to start with. According to Chrysler if you stack additional coolers in front of each other they should be 6” between the coolers. If you then downsize the already correctly size radiator hose then it may be the straw that broke the camels back. I am trying how to place my tranny and engine oil coolers horizontal and divert the airflow down through the horizontal cooler. My race cars that were professionally built for the factory were done this way and I feel the theory is good. My approach to the unknown is search out the known pros and try to reproduce what has proven as a good solution RacerJoe
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by JACB » Sat Jul 21, 2018 10:55 pm

You make some good points Racer Joe ..... But its a case of gummed/blocked up radiator or possibly slightly restricted water flow due to the filter.

If all is like new, then the filter is not needed. But if you are dealing with a 40 year old engine that possibly hasn't been rebuilt in that time, then a filter may be the better option?

Six of one or half a dozen of the other? Your choice.
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by Rohan Christmas » Mon Aug 20, 2018 6:14 am

I have been running TEFBA filters on my classic cars for almost two decades now.
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by johnw » Mon Aug 20, 2018 7:01 am

Would be good to fit some sensors and actually get some figures logged. Flow volume, water temperature, pump effort, block temperature, under bonnet temperature, etc.

Questions we could then answer:
Flow volume at different RPM
Does a coolant flush help a 40 year old system, which flush?
Water wetter and different coolants, any improvements?
Effect of a given fan setup on the system?
Aluminium vs Copper radiator, is Copper really similar performance when both are new?
Electric water pump, any good?
Different pump impeller choices,
And of course:
How much does a filter impair the system?

Small rechargeable bluetooth sensor modules using IR sensor beams could be cable tied to hoses, etc, during the monitoring phase.

Someone could then develop a closed loop system using additional electric water pump and fan, which minimises additional power usage. This system could be very unobtrusive. The car could be otherwise stock, but for a front mounted radiator fan, and the electric pump, either of which could assist only when the stock system was overburdened.

My FFs never really overheated. Perhaps it is the extra bonnet space? I used to reverse flush the radiators and block out as soon as I bought one, then use Rad Flush, before finally refilling. No idea if that helped or not, but I would do that as well as changing the fluids.
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by Joerg » Tue Aug 21, 2018 8:11 am

The solution is already avalible.

https://en.hoots.de/
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by johnw » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:28 am

Joerg wrote:The solution is already avalible.

https://en.hoots.de/


That is getting close, but it has wires. I was thinking a rechargeable battery and bluetooth in each sensor unit, reusable cable ties/magnets to hold them on, and a wooden box to store them in with an inductive charging system.
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Working on: LHD 1973 Mk3 Interceptor J series, 119/122.
Previous FFs: 119/006, 119/73, 119/123, 119/132, 127/255, 127/289. Current: 119/036 (remains stolen unrecovered).
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by Rohan Christmas » Wed Aug 22, 2018 11:18 pm

johnw wrote:Would be good to fit some sensors and actually get some figures logged. Flow volume, water temperature, pump effort, block temperature, under bonnet temperature, etc.

Questions we could then answer:
Flow volume at different RPM
Does a coolant flush help a 40 year old system, which flush?
Water wetter and different coolants, any improvements?
Effect of a given fan setup on the system?
Aluminium vs Copper radiator, is Copper really similar performance when both are new?
Electric water pump, any good?
Different pump impeller choices,
And of course:
How much does a filter impair the system?

Small rechargeable bluetooth sensor modules using IR sensor beams could be cable tied to hoses, etc, during the monitoring phase.

Someone could then develop a closed loop system using additional electric water pump and fan, which minimises additional power usage. This system could be very unobtrusive. The car could be otherwise stock, but for a front mounted radiator fan, and the electric pump, either of which could assist only when the stock system was overburdened.

My FFs never really overheated. Perhaps it is the extra bonnet space? I used to reverse flush the radiators and block out as soon as I bought one, then use Rad Flush, before finally refilling. No idea if that helped or not, but I would do that as well as changing the fluids.


My experience with other makes of V8. Keeping them cool on the streets has never been an issue but it has been when on a race track.

Water wetter - I believe this works to some extent but the biggest improvement relates to ditching the ethylene glycol. In comparison to 100 water, a 50% water/ethylene glycol solution will reduce the heat capacity by approximately 20% and the thermal conductivity by around a third.

Fans - having a shroud makes an enormous difference. A twin electric fan with shroud works well too. I use this with a twin temperature switch located at the exit of the radiator. The low switch point turns the fans onto low and the high switch point puts them onto high.

Impeller - This can make a massive difference. A poor impeller will cause cavitation (low pressure locations where the water turns to steam). The small steam bubbles then make there way to the highest point in the engine which just happens to be the heads and pockets of steam build up. Steam doesn't transfer heat as well as water and thus you get hot spots occurring. The engine may also make some thumping noises as the steam escapes out the return hose. The impellers I have used in the past were from John Bennet in Melbourne. They had been tested with a perspex sheet on the rear so that any cavitation could be seen. Depending on how hard the engine revs the impeller requirements can also vary.

Filter - That's easy to check. When you have done a coolant change and you are working any trapped air out of the system all you have to do is rev the engine and you can see the water flowing through the radiator. The filter makes next to no difference as far as I can see.

Thermostat - Using a Robert Shaw thermostat and not a Dayco thermostat was of benefit.

Oil cooler - This made the biggest difference of all when it came to cooling at the race track. The oil cooler has its own thermostat.
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by Joe Schiavone » Mon Oct 08, 2018 10:10 pm

RacerJoe here. I made a post regarding a radiator filter. The people who sent me the filter sent me one that was undersized for the radiator hose. Had I squeezed the hose to install the device I would have drastically reduced the flow of coolant or engine exhaust on an engint that already runs good temp wise. I think the term bottle neck describes what they wanted me to do. RacerJoe
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