Timing chain

[Colin Shaw]

Hi all. I've come to a halt on my 383 engine build new timing chain fitted but still has 1/2" slack ! That's not right.
It's an Elgin TC-3010 bought off US eBay. Spoke to there tech believe correct number although was a change in 1965 just
To width not length.Would really like to try it on somebody's engine build if that were Possible? Just to check chain or
Engine problem it's std crank don't know if it's been line bored I believe that can be a problem. Did your new chain fit tight with no slack ? Any thoughts before I have to get another new one to try maybe a Cloyes.

[slotcarone]

Try another timing chain kit by a different manufacturer before you do anything else.

[Les Smith]

Hi,
I had this problem last year with another make of American V8 engine I was renovating last year. It was caused by having had a line bore, which effectively puts the crankshaft closer to the camshaft. From the States you can buy a specially sized chain set that will overcome the problem. There is also a lot of advice on line as to which size to select and it will require some careful measuring. I don't remember the chain set that cured the problem being that expensive. It seems in the States they cater for these problems.
Les Smith

[slotcarone]

Not an expert on this but I don't believe line boring an engine will change the position of the crankshaft in the engine. That would not make sense.

[Kevin Birch]

Line boring just makes sure all the engine block bearings are perfectly in line, as some blocks can distort, or get damaged. It just means the new shell bearings need to have a larger diameter outer surface to compensate, not too uncommon, which is the reason you should never throw away your old shells before getting and fitting new ones. The crank/camshaft stays in the same relative position in the block.

[cannonball]

Line boring does move the crankshaft deeper in to the block and can give timing chain and gearbox centre line problems, you do not get bearings that are over size on the outer diameter all that stays standard,

[Les Smith]

Hi, Thanks for the support Cannonball, I must admit I rarely post on the Forum these days as people seem hard to convince. I repeat I was rebuilding a very similar V8, it had a new Cloyes chain set which was an excellent fit no slack whatsoever. It then turned out when I put my Dial gauges on the crankshaft which had been reground that it was buckled. This I should add had been bolted into the engine before I purchased it. It further transpired that the cause was a swoop in the block and the previous owner had by bolting the crank in allowed this swoop to damage it. So as well as work being required on the crank I had the block line bored and it only required the smallest amount of machining. When I reassembled with all the correct bearing shells the new cloyes set was as slack as any worn chain I have ever seen. Proving my point. However In the States as I have said they cater for this by supplying special chain sets for blocks that have been line bored or even as mine was just honed. This solved the problem. Plus the fact why would they manufacture special chain sets for this situation if they are not required.
So as I said if you line bore or hone the block the crank will move nearer to the camshaft. Now I don't mind discussing other solutions and I certainly don't know it all but I have been playing with engines for over 60 years.
I would further agree with the original advice that the first start would be to try a new standard chain set but if that doesn't cure it there is stuff available that will. Trust this will convince the doubters and be of help.

[cannonball]

Hi, Thanks for the support Cannonball, I must admit I rarely post on the Forum these days as people seem hard to convince. I repeat I was rebuilding a very similar V8, it had a new Cloyes chain set which was an excellent fit no slack whatsoever. It then turned out when I put my Dial gauges on the crankshaft which had been reground that it was buckled. This I should add had been bolted into the engine before I purchased it. It further transpired that the cause was a swoop in the block and the previous owner had by bolting the crank in allowed this swoop to damage it. So as well as work being required on the crank I had the block line bored and it only required the smallest amount of machining. When I reassembled with all the correct bearing shells the new cloyes set was as slack as any worn chain I have ever seen. Proving my point. However In the States as I have said they cater for this by supplying special chain sets for blocks that have been line bored or even as mine was just honed. This solved the problem. Plus the fact why would they manufacture special chain sets for this situation if they are not required.
So as I said if you line bore or hone the block the crank will move nearer to the camshaft. Now I don't mind discussing other solutions and I certainly don't know it all but I have been playing with engines for over 60 years.
I would further agree with the original advice that the first start would be to try a new standard chain set but if that doesn't cure it there is stuff available that will. Trust this will convince the doubters and be of help.

I just built a stocker 440 no line bore etc, i fitted a comp cams true roller chain from summit racing cca-2104, its the tightest fitting chain i have seen, maybe worth you trying one as it may sort the job for you, a liitle slack is ok most new ones have slack in them out of the box and certainly if you pull the mtr back down after as little as a few thousand miles, hope this helps you,,,