Which Lokar kick-down cable?

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Jorrocks
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Which Lokar kick-down cable?

Post by Jorrocks »

Can anyone let me have the correct Lokar part number suit a 1972 Int. MK3 with the Holley 4-barrel carb?

I think it's this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/l ... cation=int" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

but now unsure, as there seems to be a 60" or 72" version also!

Thanks in advance.
1972 Interceptor MkIII (128/4886)
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Philip Lochner
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Re: Which Lokar kick-down cable?

Post by Philip Lochner »

Will a cable replacement work?

These cars have a metal rod that connects from the carb to the transmission.
Best regards
Philip
Mk3 7.2 #128/8120 Jan 73 http://tinyurl.com/hsjucm5
Mk3 7.2 #2240.9677 May '74 modified:
Fuel injected: http://tinyurl.com/qyrx93f
GM 4L60e 4-sp transmission: http://tinyurl.com/qxlwk95
cannonball
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Re: Which Lokar kick-down cable?

Post by cannonball »

Yes a cable can be used, get rid of the junkie metal rods, i think any of the cables will sort you out, go for the longer one you can lose the xtra length if you need to,
WATTS RACING TRANSMISSIONS, 07974 088375,
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Jorrocks
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Re: Which Lokar kick-down cable?

Post by Jorrocks »

cannonball wrote:Yes a cable can be used, get rid of the junkie metal rods, i think any of the cables will sort you out, go for the longer one you can lose the xtra length if you need to,
Thanks Dunc,
Do you know if I need their special bracket too or not? This one:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/l ... cation=int" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm thinking possibly not as my throttle cable pulls from the front rather than the rear.
1972 Interceptor MkIII (128/4886)
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Philip Lochner
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Re: Which Lokar kick-down cable?

Post by Philip Lochner »

cannonball wrote:get rid of the junkie metal rods
What are the benefits of using cable rather than the metal rod?
Best regards
Philip
Mk3 7.2 #128/8120 Jan 73 http://tinyurl.com/hsjucm5
Mk3 7.2 #2240.9677 May '74 modified:
Fuel injected: http://tinyurl.com/qyrx93f
GM 4L60e 4-sp transmission: http://tinyurl.com/qxlwk95
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Jorrocks
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Re: Which Lokar kick-down cable?

Post by Jorrocks »

Philip Lochner wrote:
cannonball wrote:get rid of the junkie metal rods
What are the benefits of using cable rather than the metal rod?
I expect it to be a more direct and smoother action than the rods.
1972 Interceptor MkIII (128/4886)
cannonball
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Re: Which Lokar kick-down cable?

Post by cannonball »

Jorrocks wrote:
cannonball wrote:Yes a cable can be used, get rid of the junkie metal rods, i think any of the cables will sort you out, go for the longer one you can lose the xtra length if you need to,
Thanks Dunc,
Do you know if I need their special bracket too or not? This one:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/l ... cation=int" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm thinking possibly not as my throttle cable pulls from the front rather than the rear.

Hi, you probably wont need the bracket but at 30 bucks you might as well just in case, some cables come with like a square fixing and that bracket will have the provision for a correct fit,,

re benifits,, its just a nicer install than the rod or rods that are originally used,,
WATTS RACING TRANSMISSIONS, 07974 088375,
CLOBBER THE COMPETITION
451Mopar
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Re: Which Lokar kick-down cable?

Post by 451Mopar »

The cable KD-2727HT, and bracket SRK-4000 That you listed are correct. The SRK-4000 bracket attaches to the rear carb bolt/stud and is designed to hold the Lokar throttle cable, and the Kickdown cable bracket attaches to the SRK-4000 bracket.

Here are the instructions:

http://www.lokar.com/downloads/pdf-inst ... ckdown.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
1973 Jensen Interceptor III 140/8400
1971 Dodge Charger 500
1969 Dodge Coronets: a 500 model, a R/T hardtop model and a R/T Convertible
Joe Schiavone
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Re: Which Lokar kick-down cable?

Post by Joe Schiavone »

The problem is the brackets that hold the long rods have punched holes verses machined holes thus when you go for the passing gear the mechanism torques to the side befor it goes rearward. I te drilled two top and bottom holes in the bracket and installed shims in all 4 holes for a precise fit of the large C shaped piece that was a sloppy fit. Pricission fit resulted in the levers going straight back and downshift works as originally designed
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