electronic ignition

[Jagnut]

I am considering converting my single point s for an electronic ignition. I have just converted my MG with the powerspark kit. It appears that mallory and petronix may be the way to go. Has anybody had any experience with these. It is a 383 engine.
Thanks

[Twright55]

If you just want to keep it simple, then Pertronix is the way go.
I haven't used one myself, but plenty of people I know have and they've been very reliable.

[taximan]

http://www.martinrobey.com/jensen/inter ... 3-ign-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[BJWilliams]

I fitted a Pertonix kit some time ago to my CV8. Simple to fit and works very well.
Bob

[Sebastian Wendt]

Hi,

I also fitted Pertronix Ignitor II with a "Flamethrower" coil (removed the resistor) - works very well and reliable in my car.

Regards,
Sebastian

[Derek FF2 127/201]

Just a word of caution on the Pertronix II and Flamethrower coil. I have fitted one on my FF2 but am having problems with it. It noticeably improves smoothness and performance and its adjustability is excellent allowing it to be set up with a higher static advance and a faster advance curve. The problem is that under heat soak start conditions it often refuses to tick over evenly. It just cuts out at anything under 1000 rpm. After perhaps 30 seconds once you get moving it settles down and is OK again.

I noticed on the Pertronix site it mentions that the Pertronix I is only rated to a temperature of 300F. There is no mention of a temp rating for the Pertronix II or III but it does make me wonder if temperature is the issue. It gets very hot under the bonnet. Are the people who rate it using it on a CV8?. Does anyone run a Pertronix on an Interceptor or FF?

Any ideas gratefully received. I am going to re-instate the original distributor once I've given it a birthday with new points/cap/rotor to make sure that cures the problem.

[David B]

I run an MSD 6530 ignition with programmable advance curve and map sensor - I haven't had any issues so far and it does get hot under the SP bonnet.

[Philip Lochner]

Just to keep things interesting, I would like add more options for an electronic ignition solution. These options are not at all as simple and uncomplicated as the others above but they do offer the elimination of the distributor FWIW. The first option would be much easier to implement than option 2.

1) Wasted spark, distributorless, programmable ignition system based on the FORD "EDIS-8" ignition system

This solution would require the following to implement:
- a 36-1 toothed wheel mounted to the crank pulley (or cutting 36-1 teeth into the crank damper like I did - http://tinyurl.com/ng7sh3j)
- A VR sensor (magnetic pickup) mounted to "see" the toothed wheel
- an EDIS-8 ignition module;
- EDIS-8 coil packs and HT wires
- a programmable controller to control the EDIS-8 ignition module (Megajolt or Megasquirt)

2) Wasted spark, distributorless, programmable ignition system based on the Megasquirt-2 (MS-2) or MS-3, DIY engine management systems

This solution would require the following to implement:
- a 36-1 toothed wheel mounted to the crank pulley (or cutting 36-1 teeth into the crank damper like I did)
- A VR sensor (magnetic pickup) mounted to "see" the toothed wheel
- a 4-channel ignition module (off the shelf Bosch or build your own);
- EDIS-8 coil packs (or any other wasted spark coil packs eg from Range Rover or Land Rover Discovery) and HT wires
- a Megasquirt -2 or -3 programmable controller to control the ignition module;

3) With MS-3 its also possible to build a coil-per-plug solution for the V8, but there is very little performance benefit (if any) to coil-per-plug over wasted spark, so it would purely be physical considerations that would motivate a coil-per-plug implementation.

[chappy528]

I have an Ignitor III and matching Flamethrower coil, and very good they are too. The Ignitor provides multi-spark throughout the rev range. Great torque and surprisingly good fuel consumption (of course, everything is relative). I am given to understand that most problems experienced with Ignitors and hot engines stem from insufficient earth, so try adding a braided lead between the dizzy body and the block. I had a similar problem with an Ignitor in a Lucas dizzy on a Jag engine, and the additional earth cured it.

[currywurstcarpaccio]

Anybody runs a Pertronix Ignitor II in a '73 Interceptor MkIII (440).
What is the right Ignitor model?

[Philip Lochner]

Anybody runs a Pertronix Ignitor II in a '73 Interceptor MkIII (440).
What is the right Ignitor model?

My gut-feel is that the 440 can benefit from the multipe spark concept as offered by the Ignitor III.

For Petronix II is seems : 91381A
For Petronix III : 71385

[currywurstcarpaccio]

Hi Philip,

are you sure that this is the right kit?
I thought that my H-Series Interceptor is equipped with an electronic distributor. Maybe 9CH-181 shouldt be the right one?
https://pertronix.com/pertronix-9ch-181 ... jrScWhKgaY

[Philip Lochner]

Hi Philip,

are you sure that this is the right kit?
I thought that my H-Series Interceptor is equipped with an electronic distributor. Maybe 9CH-181 shouldt be the right one?
https://pertronix.com/pertronix-9ch-181 ... jrScWhKgaY

Indeed, the 9CH-181 seems more appropriate. But is this kit not meant to CONVERT from POINTS to electronic?

If your car has an electronic distributor already (best is to go look!! just remove dissy cap and see whats inside), WHY are you looking to get Pertronix?

An electronic distributor has a magnetic pickup inside that feeds a signal to an "ignition amplifier" mounted somewhere in the engine (typically in front of the radiator on the Jensen). It is highly unlikely that the electronics in the dissy will be faulty, so all you need is another/better ignition amp (like MSD 6)?

[currywurstcarpaccio]

you're right, I better go and have a look under the cap to be sure.

At the moment there no spark so the car doesn't start. I suspect the ECU is defective. The coil is OK (works in another car).
After converting to Pertronix I can run the engine without ECU and ballast resistor (less parts that can be faulty) and I hope the sparks are more powerful with the flamethrower coil.

[Philip Lochner]

The Pertronix unit is in effect BOTH a sensor and ignition amp in one unit. From a pure reliability perspective, it is better to seperate points of potential failure. I say again that the magnetic pickup in the dissy is rather unlikely to fail because its nothing but a magnet with a coil wound around it (hence 2 wires coming out).

If your distributor is electronic (star wheel with magnetic pickup), and the original ignition amp is acting up, I believe that you would be better off using a seperate generic ignition amp that is made for a magnetic pickup which will save you many $$$ !!! Here is a list that will work (pulled off the Megasquirt manual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm):


Echlin TP47 ~$70 at NAPA OnLine
Standard Motor Products LX315
Accel 35363 ~$50 at Summit
Holley 891-102 ~$27 at Summit,
General Motors 1976908