Timing Gears

[PaulMcElhinney]

Richie, for info:

http://www.joc.org.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... ump+gasket" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The oil pick up is not designed to be taken apart so you have to use a screwdriver to lever up the little 3-4mm wide flange. Once you have over half of the circumference levered up the filter gauze will slide out and you can clean everything. Reassemble it and tap down the flange. Many people complain about leaking sumps. Now whilst I don't claim to be an expert I have a theory on this. When the bolts are torqued up the metal around each bolt hole is pulled out of flat. I put the sump pan on an engineer's surface table and carefully "dressed" the metal around the bolt holes with a suitable drift so that it was completely flat. As Duncan says in the above thread you'll need two sump pan gaskets which go either side of the windage tray. And as Shaun says, you can never have your sump too clean. Good luck.

[PaulMcElhinney]

http://www.joc.org.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... olt+torque" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Richie]

thanks all.

[Barrie]

Isn't that the oil slinger Barrie? goes on crankshaft over the small sprocket.
Shaun.

Hi Taximan!
Upon reflection you are, of course, quite right
I'm conflating information and it is the timing chain which caused the damage.
Still, whatever it is it's still good advice to put it the right way round!

[thomaslk]

... pulling the oilpan could give you the following picture / inside view:
rgds
Thomas

[jglarkin]

"timing gears and chain will give you peace of mind, but a top end rebuild is a thousand pounds and only necessary if you have very poor compression, before you know it you are buying piston rings and other items you never planned on, the costs spiral upwards and eventually you wish you had never started tinkering.
Shaun.

I thought I would change the hydraulic lifters before Christmas, I've been suffering a lumpy idle for a while and had an annoying ticking noise that needed to be cured, hopefully, by replacing my very old worn out ones.
Not a big job, could be done in an evening, car will be available over Christmas and new year. Not very expensive either......

Having taken out the valley pan I thought I had better check if I could see the dreaded cam sprocket (it can be seen behind the distributor shaft). Yup, plastic! In perfect pristine condition.

Fans off, radiator out, water pump off, chain cover off. Gasket section completely welded to bottom of cam chain cover and torn off the rest of the gasket with remarkable precision

BUT now the radiator etc. is out the power steering bug has grabbed me again and I can't bring myself to put it all back together again without at least spending a few sleepless nights thinking about it, AND the exhaust is more rotten than I thought (old stainless downpipes anybody?) AND no point in putting back that squeaky old alternator,-fit the Mitsubishi one.....

Just Tinkering

Jon

[Joerg]

Interceptor MK1 power steering could be fitted into a CV8, you only need to fabricate new brackets.
No idea where you could get such a unit.

Joerg

..still not old enough for power steering

[Steve Payne]

If fitting power steering why does the rack need to come from a Jensen? As it will be non original see what else that looks suitable and if your making brackets anyway it might as well come from what ever else fits.

Steve

[Martin R]

Looking at the timing gear through the dizzy hole can be misleading - Dino said; "if you can identify whether the gear has been replaced at some point and does not have plastic teeth, that may be a start".

However, if it's a truly knackered gear, it can look like my old one below, with NO PLASTIC remaining!

I had to go back and look at my bare block photos to answer this one!

The good news is that, yes, with the dizzy out, there is an opening which will enable you to see the larger timing gear, but I think you'll be really struggling to see the condition of the teeth for two reasons:
- its up near the top of the opening/hole when you remove the dizzy (you'll get a great view of the middle of the gear, but you'll be struggling to see the teeth)
- the chain is still fitted to the gear.

However, if you can identify whether the gear has been replaced at some point and does not have plastic teeth, that may be a start.

Good luck, Dino

[Richie]

oooh eck!
my understanding is that the metal timing gears don't have the circular hole cut outs...in other words, if my understanding is correct, if you cant see holes, metal timing gears are in place.

As such, is there an easy way of being able to see the 'face' of the gears?

[thomaslk]

i am not sure what is visible via the distributor hole but maybe the identification of the timing chain design (double roller vs traditional) is feasible. A double roller design (as on my pictures) will never run on the nylon coated sprockets. Martin's picture above shows the traditional chain design suitable to run on the nylon coated gear. Both chain designs are clearly different.
rgds
Thomas

[grottenolm]

Not sure if there have been already pics of the plastic timing gear. Below the pic is roughly two months old when I replaced mine. Three teeth were left. One idea would be a mouth mirror via the distributor hole - maybe you can check the status.

[Richie]

Good idea. Or maybe a web cam thingy on a flexi pole...?

[thomaslk]

sure - these webcams are really surprisingly powerfull and cheap. I bought one with flexible pole, small enough to pass a spark plug thread with illumination and WLAN transmission to laptop/tablet for less than 50 Euro.
rgds
Thomas

[jglarkin]

Mobile phone....

https://www.flickr.com/photos/62752698@N06/16241372836/

No doubt.