E10 petrol

[pmorgan-capner]

Hi
Caught out!!! What is the implication of introduction of E10 for 1972 unmodified Jensen Healey? Live in countryside and it may not be too easy to get E5 super unleaded.
Peter

[VFK44]

I'll let others chip in with Healey related info about possible corrosion, but one of the big problems is the formation of sludge deposits when the car is laid up. If you can travel to find an E5 pump before the winter break, you'll avoid that problem. Or just drive it all year long!

[Wolfgang]

Dear Stephen,

it's not about corrosion, the so named E10 is added by simple rap seed (in principle oil that you're filling in your friteuse to get french fries) but much more better refined. But it's a natural product which has the problem that it get's older much faster than Super Plus with additives (you will never leave the oil in your friteuse longer than 2 weeks - otherwise the fries will have a taste that you will be call 'uneatable'.) the same with E10, and also natural fuel is aging - if the car is standing for more than one year it's the same effect. Your suggestion is the right one, drive him minimum all 4 weeks for some miles, then no problem will occur. Or fill in for the winter season Super Plus with 102 Octane, added by a fuel cleaning additive. Expensive like hell - and it's more fun getting well dressed and driving a convertible when the weather is clean (and no salt on the street - Belgians are world master in that, one millimeter of snow, the reaction is 1 centimeter of salt per sqm )
and even below 0 degrees centigrade

The E10 is refined as per today that it's not having any negative effect to the gaskets - it's more blocking the tubes and mostly the carb - and that may be solved by using start pilot (or if not on the chemistry rack - brake cleaner). Then the fun starts again.

Guys have a nice day
Wolfgang

[JamesE]

It seems to me the best widely available option for classic car users is Esso Synergy Supreme +.
The fuel is 99 octane (or more) and actually has no ethanol in it at all (it says E5 on the pumps, but contrary to popular belief that number is a maximum not a minimum).

This will help you find your nearest suppliers.
https://www.esso.co.uk/en-gb/find-station

[colin7673]

Here is part of an email I received from an American when I ask this question to him,
Three years ago some JOC members took their cars to the USA, where they have had E10 fuel for some years, yes where possible we did try to fill with the Higher Octane fuel but most of the time in the Interstate it was E10. I do not think anybody had any running issues which was good.
So it's a case of winter storage but this is the response I got

E10 - We've been running E10 here for a long time. On reports that it absorbs water over long periods of sitting, like most vintage cars, I have been using Lucas Oil's E10 treatment that is supposed to do something magic to prevent that. You have to use it immediately when you fill up and I did that regularly until last year. But it's only a few ounces per tankful. Have only had one rough running experience and used a fuel cleaner (forgot which one) to use when filling the tank up. That worked. Reports of carb damage were when the engine sat unstarted over winter with no protection and the fuel evaporated in the carb. So I would say there is not much to fear as long as you take care not to let the carb go dry too often without using a fuel cleaner additive.

IMG_0096.JPG (48.63 KiB) Viewed 1513 times

[Wolfgang]

Colin you're absolutely right. Most of the cars we're getting in spring time are suffering in 'winter influenza', other owners are coming beginning end of sept or oct to get their cars prepared for the winter season. Just what you're saying - add some products to get the fuel functional and the carb alive.
This winter season I had no time for my nice read Diva (Interceptor MKIII) having some more cars and a garage, starting her first time end of march (in winter time she was started by one of my mechanics messing it because of not being knowledgeable) he runs like a Diesel on the left bank.
Works to be done: exchanging all spark plugs (and as you know on an Interceptor it takes time), cleaning the carb and readjusting - half a day of work.
Some spare parts we're having on stock not calculated...

That's the reality
Met motorsportelieke groetjes
Wolfgang

[Chris_R]

The implications of using E10 fuel is that certain materials are more likely to degrade than others.
I don't know what some of these materials are but Buna-N seals, Neoprene seals, Urethane rubber, Acrylonitrile-butadiene hoses, Polybutene terephthalate, Polyurethane, Polymers containing certain alcohols, Nylon 66, Fibreglass-reinforced polyester, epoxy resins, Shellac and Cork are not recommended in fuel systems where E10 will be used. Any of these materials in fuel systems should be replaced with compatible alternatives.
Long term storage may cause corrosion in some fuel systems metals.
Apart from the foregoing, E10 can be used. There may be a slight mixture-leaning effect of about 2.5% which you might feel as a power loss and maybe a slightly hotter running.
It should be noted that from 1953 until 1973 Cleveland Discol petrol was widely available across the UK which contained between 25% and 28% ethanol.