Re chroming

[JA51ON W]

Hi everyone, has anybody had any luck with re chromers for bumpers and trims ? In the south would be good but not essential. Thanks in advance, Jason.

[Keith]

https://www.joc.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=24797" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

https://www.joc.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15391" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Manwithaplan]

Ja5ion

The local ( to us) Jensen supplier uses Hampshire Electroplating ltd, 61-75 Empress Rd, Southampton SO14 0JW for their chroming needs.

As always turn around time is about 2-3 months.

Mike

[JA51ON W]

Thanks to you both

[Toby]

Another option to consider is S&T plating at Yate Bristol

[Grant]

Jason.. Don't bother chroming bumpers.. they'll need doing again 1 day,.. go Stainless bumpers, Mk2 ones are available in Stainless too, they'll be about the same cost as chroming and will last forever .. cheap chroming will last even less time

[Martin R]

Jason.. Don't bother chroming bumpers.. they'll need doing again 1 day,.. go Stainless bumpers]

One day, I'm sure they will need rechroming.
I had the ones on my MK1 FF rechromed about 11 years ago and they are still mint but, one day, they probably will need rechroming.....

[JA51ON W]

I do already have an appointment with s and t chroming this Friday to drop my bumpers for a quote. I did see some of their work on their stand at the race retro show a few weeks ago which looked spot on but was worried about how long it would last. I’m 50/50 at the moment!

[DPP]

Jason
Both chrome and S/S bumpers have pros and cons.

Chrome look better and chrome is very hard so very resistant to scratching but will rust if left for long periods in damp or wet conditions.

S/S can scratch very easily, I had my new bumpers repolished before fitting as had some small marks. Mine fitted fine but I have seen ones that wouldnt fit without cutting.

For me if building a perfect car which will be used little and stored in a dry place or prefrably a carcoon I would choose chrome, but for a car that is to be used and may get a little damp in storage then S/S would be better.
I would keep the original chrome bumpers if fitting S/S in case you change your mind as they are very expensive new.

Also im not sure on the S/S bumpers supplied now but they came with laterMK3 mounts and I had to cut these off then make and fit early tube type mounts to mine.

[Steve Payne]

I might be mistaken but I was told the modern Chrome will not be as good as the original as some of the chemicals used are now not aloud for environmental reasons.

The other problem is some grinding is needed when they remove the old chrome and the original bumpers get thinner each time this is done.

I know Stainless can scratch easier but 20 mins with some metal polish is all that is needed.

The big advantage with Stainless bumpers is they can be cut under the over riders to get a perfect fit.

Steve

[Frankoid]

Stainless is the way to go, but keep the originals. The stainless steel goes with the sills and rear window surrounds too... As for MkII bumpers, I am still on the case Grant

[Chris_R]

There should not be any grinding to remove the old chrome as it should be removed by chemical dipping and dissolving it into solution. Incidentally chrome dissolved this way cannot be recovered and reused.

This is what I found out about re-chroming when I was getting my front bumper rechromed....

The "old" chrome is Hexavalent Chrome. The "new" chrome is Trivalent Chrome. Both are "hard" chrome.

From 2017, there was a proposal from the EU to ban Hexavalent chroming because the chemicals used are classified as carcinogenic and mutagenic. Trivalent chroming is not affected.

But... The aero industry and marine industry use hexavalent chroming extensively and it would be more expensive to rewrite all their procedures and re-certify (especially in the aero industry) all the affected components than it would be to buy a license for €300,000 to continue using Hexavalent chroming so companies can continue to do hexavalent chroming if they buy the right licenses. Extensions to 2024 for plating for aerospace and to 2026 for chrome additives in aerospace paints have been granted.

The raw materials and the processes for trivalent chroming and hexavalent chroming (both are hard chrome) is different and the same equipment cannot be used for trivalent chroming that was used for hexavalent chroming so any business doing hexavalent chroming that wished to continue and not buy the license for hexavalent chroming will have to replace their chrome baths, anodes and so on which would be a significant investment.

The result of both hexavalent and trivalent chroming is a plating of Chrome metal. Trivalent chrome is very slightly darker than that for hexavalent chrome but for most people you would not be able to see any difference unless you had one of each next to each other and they were in the sun. If all your chrome was trivalent chrome you would not realise it was the new chrome and not the old chrome. Good chromers will use additives to regulate the final colour.

Triple plating is more important than whether it is Hexavalent or Trivalent Chrome process. Triple plating is where there is a layer of Copper, then a layer of Nickel followed by the Chrome and the work done in polishing the Copper and Nickel stages is key to the results of the Chrome stage which is only a few microns thick.
In terms of hardness for a given thickness as would be used in a decorative application like bumpers, wheels or similar automotive uses there is virtually no difference between the two processes. As said, the resulting plate from both processes is Chrome metal.

I had my front bumper rechromed in 2016 and there is certainly no degredation in finish so far including the area on the corner where it had to be repaired.

[johnw]

From what I have read about the stainless ones (never seen one in real life), is that they can't be bothered to fit proper mounts. The captive nuts apparently have six sided metric nuts in (instead of square to stop them spinning), so the imperial bolt binds, and then the nut spins in the captive holder!

I'm actually after an early Vignale style Mk1 bumper, and the one on their site shows this shape! Per sent an early bumper in for them to copy! Does the profile of the bumper parts match the Vignale shape overriders? Are their overriders Vignale profile? What about the back bumper? Are all their Mk1 bumpers Vignale ones?

If they can't run a Tap through a piece of flat steel stock to make a captive nut, and if people are having to cut the bumpers to make them fit, these sound like alarm bells, though some say how fantastic they are. Makes you want to buy a sheet of 1.5mm 304 stainless and start hitting it with a hammer. I wonder...

[Dion]

John,
I know the Vignale front bumper is different (sharper corners to the raised number plaat holder) but what is specific to Vignale overriders? And Vignale rear bumper? I did not realise these were different to later Mk1 spec as well.

[johnw]

I understand that the cross section of the actual bumper is a slightly different shape. Not noticeable normally, unless you try and mix parts, the overriders won't fit snugly where the thin rubber strip goes on the edges. I had that problem once and didn't understand why. If you look at the Vignale designed Maserati Mexico, you will see the door cards, opening quarter lights, door latch, interior door handle, and bumper overriders are similar to the early Interceptor. The rear bumper profile on that (1965) car does look very slightly different to the later Interceptor Mk1.