The Jensen Owners' Club

Hi all,
I am looking for a fire extinquisher for my Jensen(s). Anyone who has experience with the following system?

https://www.sensetek.nl/en/automatic-su ... n-systems/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

heres another system https://www.firetrace.co.uk/application ... ion-system" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

video here https://www.firetrace.co.uk/firetrace-m ... -test-demo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have one of these systems: http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/Products/ViewProds/24" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Having never pressed the button I don't know how well it works! Due to testing required and the associated costs I'm going to switch to a handheld extinguisher instead of replacing my current cylinder.

First check your insurance cover very closely. If that covers the fire and you happen to have a powder extinguisher, just walk away and let the car burn. The powder can be very corrosive and is very hard to remove rendering the car into a rusted hull in few years time. So do not go for powder extinguishers. BCF (illegal) or the modern equivalent, CO2, foam should all work fine but you need a large enough extinguisher, 5kg is usually OK, 2kg the absolute minimum and the puny little 1kg affairs are just fine for extinguishing a match. All extinguishers have to be checked/refilled/renewed periodically or be replaced every so often. But nobody is ever checking them so if you do not maintain them, just forget about fitting them.
I have BCF in the kitchen, the garage and the car.
Kees Oudesluijs

kees wrote:First check your insurance cover very closely. If that covers the fire and you happen to have a powder extinguisher, just walk away and let the car burn.

Is it not sufficient to promptly wash off the powder? Maybe Jet wash?

No. It just creeps in all nooks and crannies which cannot be reached Also using water will increase the damage. The powder is a salt that dissolves into water which will than creep even further in all kinds of crevasses. It is like dipping the car into the sea.
Kees Oudesluijs

Hi all,
I have been advised by several people to switch from the Dry Powder/CO2 and go for one on the nano particle type which leave no residue after use and cause less damage than the older types.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JE-50-PFE-1- ... 2749.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TXgKt7X-z4

Here is the "blurb".

The JE50 unit is the size of a medium torch but packs the punch of a 2kg dry powder or 5kg co2 extinguisher, There is minimal residue, unlike others.The unit is approved by Rina, SGS and is CE approved, Non hazardous, human safe, non toxic. Non pressurised, Environmentally safe
Can be used for all types of fires, no more wondering which one to use.

Our JE50 fire extinguisher is a GREEN AGENT product that is environmentally friendly, non toxic and safe.

Will these be less damaging than the more traditional type?

Phil

No experience with those. No specification of the chemicals used or if these are corrosive.
Kees Oudesluijs

One of our local club members (Classic and Vintage) Has a 76 Roller. He keeps it in great condition. Sent to Sydney specialist recently for brake overhaul plus at cost of $14K. On driving car back on approach to Harbour Bridge, car had an under bonnet fire and was subsequently written off at agreed value. Assesor said probably a brake hose broke and usual happened. Owner paid out in full but but out of pocket $14K.Mechanic insurance co says "Nope....sue us". Legal advice say it would be hard to prove and fees would be spectacular. Owner now has a Roller 89. Beautiful condition and a medal winner in RR club. Deceased estate. Kenny38

I have since been googling about cleaning up after dry powder use. You need to wear gloves, a mask, vacuum it up, then wash residue off with a neutralising solution containing vinegar or similar. There is lots of info, about cleaning it off, about it attacking even fabric if left, etc.

About brake fluid, the Interceptor reservoirs are particularly susceptible to leaking when aged. A cylinder with integral reservoir seems appealing given fire risks, however some of these have metric threads so take care! I wonder if an apprentice was working on the Rolls, not a particularly expensive model the 76 if it was a standard Shadow, and perhaps forced a metric thread in somewhere?

kenny38 wrote:One of our local club members (Classic and Vintage) Has a 76 Roller. He keeps it in great condition. Sent to Sydney specialist recently for brake overhaul plus at cost of $14K. On driving car back on approach to Harbour Bridge, car had an under bonnet fire and was subsequently written off at agreed value. Assesor said probably a brake hose broke and usual happened. Owner paid out in full but but out of pocket $14K.Mechanic insurance co says "Nope....sue us". Legal advice say it would be hard to prove and fees would be spectacular. Owner now has a Roller 89. Beautiful condition and a medal winner in RR club. Deceased estate. Kenny38

johnw wrote:I have since been googling about cleaning up after dry powder use. You need to wear gloves, a mask, vacuum it up, then wash residue off with a neutralising solution containing vinegar or similar. There is lots of info, about cleaning it off, about it attacking even fabric if left, etc.

You can only wash it off and neutralise it sufficiently superficially. Because the powder is so fine it will penetrate into places which cannot be reached and checked afterwards, causing havoc in the coming years out of sight with rust braking through the surface after some/many years.
Kees Oudesluijs

kees wrote: You can only wash it off and neutralise it sufficiently superficiality. Because the powder is so fine it will penetrate into places which cannot be reached and checked afterwards, causing havoc in the coming years out of sight with rust braking through the surface after some/many years.
Kees Oudesluijs

Added to that there is also the issue of accidental discharge in the car with powder! This may be more likely than a fire, especially if you have other people's kids in the car! Less so with CO2, and BCF (a type of Haylon) seems best in that respect. New haylon production is banned, but use and recycling is not.

https://fogmaker.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Another in car system.

Meanwhile I will think about some kind of electrical isolator switch installation, accessible from in the car.

Powder IS horrible to clean - just going through that

I was thinking about you as I read this thread. There are lots of posts on the net about cleaning it off, keep it dry and vacuuming while wearing protective clothing seems a good start. Not Jet wash/water as I speculated above (sorry!) and Kees corrected. One person recommended removing intake manifolds as an absolute minimum, as someone speculated that a stuck corroded ring on a newly built engine was caused by putting out a small fire 500 miles earlier. I guess hovering, stripping down and hoovering keeping it away from other stuff. Your bonnet looks really good. I guess that is easy to get stripped and tanked.

The bonnet is my smallest concern - that bloody powder is/was EVERYWHERE.

I have started to dismantle the whole car, there simply is no alternative. And the further I go the more the words "complete nut and bolt restoration" appear on the horizon.