Restoration - which model?
Restoration - which model?
I’m currently planning a new barn/garaging set up, with both lift and pit, as well as workshop area.
I’d like to undertake a light restoration and ideally would like that to be a Jensen.
I’m considering a CV-8, 541 or maybe a JH.
Can anyone advise which might be the most straightforward?
I’m unsure I think it might be the JH and have heard that the 541 is very difficult.
If none are suitable, I’m also considering an MGA, Frogeye or maybe an XJC, but would prefer it to be a Jensen.
By way of background my facilities will be good, but my skills and expertise are at the novice end of the spectrum. I could undertake a service, but have no restoration experience.
Appreciate any views.
I’d like to undertake a light restoration and ideally would like that to be a Jensen.
I’m considering a CV-8, 541 or maybe a JH.
Can anyone advise which might be the most straightforward?
I’m unsure I think it might be the JH and have heard that the 541 is very difficult.
If none are suitable, I’m also considering an MGA, Frogeye or maybe an XJC, but would prefer it to be a Jensen.
By way of background my facilities will be good, but my skills and expertise are at the novice end of the spectrum. I could undertake a service, but have no restoration experience.
Appreciate any views.
JOC Member 10653
1968 Jensen Interceptor 115/2737
1972 Triumph TR6 PI
1967 E-Type Jaguar S1 4.2 OTS
1948 MG TC
1968 Jensen Interceptor 115/2737
1972 Triumph TR6 PI
1967 E-Type Jaguar S1 4.2 OTS
1948 MG TC
- Clive Bishop
- Posts: 934
- Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:49 am
- Location: North Somerset
- Contact:
Re: Restoration - which model?
Edward,
I am like you with limited technical skills but no where to do it. However of all the ones listed, I would go for the JH for the follwojng reasons:
Cheaper to purchase
More donor cars as well as parts out there
Easy to work with
Lots of acceptable upgrades
I have just in my area, at least three JH currently for sale form £500 to £3000 depending on their condition and if they have an MOT and Nicholas, who you met at the race day has just sold his JH for £7000.
These are just my thoughts for someone just starting out on DIY
Clive
I am like you with limited technical skills but no where to do it. However of all the ones listed, I would go for the JH for the follwojng reasons:
Cheaper to purchase
More donor cars as well as parts out there
Easy to work with
Lots of acceptable upgrades
I have just in my area, at least three JH currently for sale form £500 to £3000 depending on their condition and if they have an MOT and Nicholas, who you met at the race day has just sold his JH for £7000.
These are just my thoughts for someone just starting out on DIY
Clive
1973 Interceptor Mk III 136/8332 - Moss Green
1973 Jensen Healey Mk 1 11362 - Magenta - Owned by Lindsey
1972 Jensen Healey Mk 1 10343 - Sadly too far gone and so now a donor car
1973 Jensen Healey Mk 1 12504 - Sold for potential restoration / racer
1973 Jensen Healey Mk 1 11362 - Magenta - Owned by Lindsey
1972 Jensen Healey Mk 1 10343 - Sadly too far gone and so now a donor car
1973 Jensen Healey Mk 1 12504 - Sold for potential restoration / racer
Re: Restoration - which model?
Clive,Clive Bishop wrote:Edward,
I am like you with limited technical skills but no where to do it. However of all the ones listed, I would go for the JH for the follwojng reasons:
Cheaper to purchase
More donor cars as well as parts out there
Easy to work with
Lots of acceptable upgrades
I have just in my area, at least three JH currently for sale form £500 to £3000 depending on their condition and if they have an MOT and Nicholas, who you met at the race day has just sold his JH for £7000.
These are just my thoughts for someone just starting out on DIY
Clive
Wise words and thank you for your advice on this and your advice on the telephone during my FF/Interceptor search. I think when the time comes it will be a JH, the CV-8/541 may be a bridge too far at my current limited level of expertise.
I did speak with Nicholas at Castle Combe and picked his brains regarding his JH ownership, he was very helpful too.
Warmest regards,
Edward
JOC Member 10653
1968 Jensen Interceptor 115/2737
1972 Triumph TR6 PI
1967 E-Type Jaguar S1 4.2 OTS
1948 MG TC
1968 Jensen Interceptor 115/2737
1972 Triumph TR6 PI
1967 E-Type Jaguar S1 4.2 OTS
1948 MG TC
Re: Restoration - which model?
Go for a J-H. The construction of the car is very simple, most pressings of the inner body can be repaired/replaced by home made sections, there are very few compound curves. Wings are fitted using bolts and pop-rivets and are welded/brazed/soldered at the very top front (front wing) and the very top front and rear (rear wing) over a length of about 1/2". To properly shape the wings and rear panel Jensen used plenty of lead.
Most panels are available new with one major exception: the bonnet. This also used to be available in GPR (far better as much lighter) however I am unsure if it still is.
Suspension, brakes, steering are Vauxhall Viva/Firenza/Magnum HC and are dirt cheap and plenty of the stuff around. A sensible upgrade to the front is fitting the uprights and lower suspension arms and brakes from a larger Vauxhall or the Viva GT (if you can find them). A straight bolt on affair.
As long as the engine is out it is a doddle to work on. It is very simple in spite of the DOHC set up looking very imposing. Setting the valves is the most time consuming work, take a good 2 days for that. It is not difficult but you have to follow the proper procedure to the letter and you may have to do it more than once to get it spot on. Shims from Lotus, Saab, Triumph. Be aware the the torque figures for the head are incorrect in the J-H WSM. Get a Lotus Eclat/Elan/Esprit manual.
A DIY rebuilt is no problem.
Plenty of gearbox options: Original is the 4-sp Sunbeam without OD, it is easy enough to fit one with OD, later the 5-sp Getrag from a.o. BMW, Opel/Vauxhall was fitted. Other, and better, options are Ford 5-sp. from a.o. the Sierra or the Toyota Celica. These to have an OD 5th gear. Special bell housings and/or adapters are available. Another possible candidate may be the 5-sp ZF box from the Talbot/Sunbeam Lotus.
Get a car that has a sound body. Check:
-rear deck panel from the boot, this is partly double skinned and is often rotted away, which can be masked very well with filler on the top. Feel underneath if the inside panel is rusted.
-corners of the chassis legs near the bulkhead/footwell.
-sills and lower wings (inner outer), if possible remove the splash panels to inspect. Use a magnet on the lower wings as in many cases these are filled to mask rust.
-floors, lift the mats.
-pressings on which the seats are fitted.
-rear suspension arms and the area's where the brackets are welded to the floor.
-door bottoms.
-boot rear ledge.
-bonnet corners and front ledge.
-beware of a bonnet that is kinked because of the stay. This is hard to repair properly although it can be done.
For decent tyres fit larger 15"x6"or 16"x6" wheels. You have a much bigger choice of modern, good quality and reasonably priced tyres.
Kees Oudesluijs
Most panels are available new with one major exception: the bonnet. This also used to be available in GPR (far better as much lighter) however I am unsure if it still is.
Suspension, brakes, steering are Vauxhall Viva/Firenza/Magnum HC and are dirt cheap and plenty of the stuff around. A sensible upgrade to the front is fitting the uprights and lower suspension arms and brakes from a larger Vauxhall or the Viva GT (if you can find them). A straight bolt on affair.
As long as the engine is out it is a doddle to work on. It is very simple in spite of the DOHC set up looking very imposing. Setting the valves is the most time consuming work, take a good 2 days for that. It is not difficult but you have to follow the proper procedure to the letter and you may have to do it more than once to get it spot on. Shims from Lotus, Saab, Triumph. Be aware the the torque figures for the head are incorrect in the J-H WSM. Get a Lotus Eclat/Elan/Esprit manual.
A DIY rebuilt is no problem.
Plenty of gearbox options: Original is the 4-sp Sunbeam without OD, it is easy enough to fit one with OD, later the 5-sp Getrag from a.o. BMW, Opel/Vauxhall was fitted. Other, and better, options are Ford 5-sp. from a.o. the Sierra or the Toyota Celica. These to have an OD 5th gear. Special bell housings and/or adapters are available. Another possible candidate may be the 5-sp ZF box from the Talbot/Sunbeam Lotus.
Get a car that has a sound body. Check:
-rear deck panel from the boot, this is partly double skinned and is often rotted away, which can be masked very well with filler on the top. Feel underneath if the inside panel is rusted.
-corners of the chassis legs near the bulkhead/footwell.
-sills and lower wings (inner outer), if possible remove the splash panels to inspect. Use a magnet on the lower wings as in many cases these are filled to mask rust.
-floors, lift the mats.
-pressings on which the seats are fitted.
-rear suspension arms and the area's where the brackets are welded to the floor.
-door bottoms.
-boot rear ledge.
-bonnet corners and front ledge.
-beware of a bonnet that is kinked because of the stay. This is hard to repair properly although it can be done.
For decent tyres fit larger 15"x6"or 16"x6" wheels. You have a much bigger choice of modern, good quality and reasonably priced tyres.
Kees Oudesluijs
J-H MkII, 1974
owner of a J-H since 1977
owner of a J-H since 1977
Re: Restoration - which model?
Brilliant, highly informative post.kees wrote:Go for a J-H. The construction of the car is very simple, most pressings of the inner body can be repaired/replaced by home made sections, there are very few compound curves. Wings are fitted using bolts and pop-rivets and are welded/brazed/soldered at the very top front (front wing) and the very top front and rear (rear wing) over a length of about 1/2". To properly shape the wings and rear panel Jensen used plenty of lead.
Most panels are available new with one major exception: the bonnet. This also used to be available in GPR (far better as much lighter) however I am unsure if it still is.
Suspension, brakes, steering are Vauxhall Viva/Firenza/Magnum HC and are dirt cheap and plenty of the stuff around. A sensible upgrade to the front is fitting the uprights and lower suspension arms and brakes from a larger Vauxhall or the Viva GT (if you can find them). A straight bolt on affair.
As long as the engine is out it is a doddle to work on. It is very simple in spite of the DOHC set up looking very imposing. Setting the valves is the most time consuming work, take a good 2 days for that. It is not difficult but you have to follow the proper procedure to the letter and you may have to do it more than once to get it spot on. Shims from Lotus, Saab, Triumph. Be aware the the torque figures for the head are incorrect in the J-H WSM. Get a Lotus Eclat/Elan/Esprit manual.
A DIY rebuilt is no problem.
Plenty of gearbox options: Original is the 4-sp Sunbeam without OD, it is easy enough to fit one with OD, later the 5-sp Getrag from a.o. BMW, Opel/Vauxhall was fitted. Other, and better, options are Ford 5-sp. from a.o. the Sierra or the Toyota Celica. These to have an OD 5th gear. Special bell housings and/or adapters are available. Another possible candidate may be the 5-sp ZF box from the Talbot/Sunbeam Lotus.
Get a car that has a sound body. Check:
-rear deck panel from the boot, this is partly double skinned and is often rotted away, which can be masked very well with filler on the top. Feel underneath if the inside panel is rusted.
-corners of the chassis legs near the bulkhead/footwell.
-sills and lower wings (inner outer), if possible remove the splash panels to inspect. Use a magnet on the lower wings as in many cases these are filled to mask rust.
-floors, lift the mats.
-pressings on which the seats are fitted.
-rear suspension arms and the area's where the brackets are welded to the floor.
-door bottoms.
-boot rear ledge.
-bonnet corners and front ledge.
-beware of a bonnet that is kinked because of the stay. This is hard to repair properly although it can be done.
For decent tyres fit larger 15"x6"or 16"x6" wheels. You have a much bigger choice of modern, good quality and reasonably priced tyres.
Kees Oudesluijs
Thank you Kees, I’ll hold on file until needed
Kind regards,
Edward
JOC Member 10653
1968 Jensen Interceptor 115/2737
1972 Triumph TR6 PI
1967 E-Type Jaguar S1 4.2 OTS
1948 MG TC
1968 Jensen Interceptor 115/2737
1972 Triumph TR6 PI
1967 E-Type Jaguar S1 4.2 OTS
1948 MG TC
Re: Restoration - which model?
Hi Kees I'm a real newbie to JH having bought a '73 a few weeks ago. The gearbox is my only hate item. I was interested to see that a Sierra box is an option. Can you point me in the direction of a company that supplies conversion parts please? Many thanks, Ian M
Re: Restoration - which model?
I think Martin Shirley may still have one or two. He is currently working on a conversion with a Mazda MX5/Miata 5- or 6-speed box.Ian M wrote:Hi Kees I'm a real newbie to JH having bought a '73 a few weeks ago. The gearbox is my only hate item. I was interested to see that a Sierra box is an option. Can you point me in the direction of a company that supplies conversion parts please? Many thanks, Ian M
Another alternative is to fit the later Getrag 5-speed box.
What is the problem with the gearbox. Noisy 4-speed Sunbeam box? They all are!!! Make sure it is filled up with 20W40 engine oil. Traditional gearbox oil EP90 will kill the box.
You can easily fit a Sunbeam Rapier (fast back) with overdrive although you have to fit the J-h 4-speed input shaft and you have to dismantle the box to remove and fit. You also need to fit the original bell housing. Even the original propshaft will fit.
Kees Oudesluijs
J-H MkII, 1974
owner of a J-H since 1977
owner of a J-H since 1977
- Chris_R
- JOC General Secretary
- Posts: 6583
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 9:19 am
- Location: South West London
Re: Restoration - which model?
If you are interested in a J-H, also talk in detail with the Jensen-Healey registrar, Rob Heydon. He really knows these cars inside out.
Chris
JOC Member 6116
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JOC Member 6116
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Re: Restoration - which model?
I am doing a J-H at the moment and the big thing is rust
if you can cut fold and weld great
if not pass it by
I have gone through 4m2 of steel sheet to refabricate whats rotten
Mechanics are simple and nice to work on
Hope this helps
Chris
if you can cut fold and weld great
if not pass it by
I have gone through 4m2 of steel sheet to refabricate whats rotten
Mechanics are simple and nice to work on
Hope this helps
Chris
Re: Restoration - which model?
There, I have fixed that for you.ChrisP wrote:I am doing any Jensen at the moment and the big thing is rust.
if you can cut fold and weld great
if not pass it by
I have gone through 4m2 of steel sheet to refabricate whats rotten
Mechanics are simple and nice to work on
Hope this helps
Chris
Forum Founder & Forum Member No 1.
Re: Restoration - which model?
CV8 !!!
No Jensen offers more fun to drive and it is very much straight forward. JH is a nice car, but is it really a JENSEN?
My 10 cents.
No Jensen offers more fun to drive and it is very much straight forward. JH is a nice car, but is it really a JENSEN?
My 10 cents.
I own some of the odd Jensen
Re: Restoration - which model?
Something else to factor in is the cost of restoration vs the value of the car at the end. A well restored C-V8 will be worth a lot more than a well restored JH but I'm not sure that the restoration costs would differ that much.
1964 Jensen CV-8 II
Re: Restoration - which model?
Applies to most Jensens anyway if you look at it that way. They were always a mush-mash of parts.Joerg wrote:CV8 !!!
JH is a nice car, but is it really a JENSEN?
My 10 cents.
Kees Oudesluijs
J-H MkII, 1974
owner of a J-H since 1977
owner of a J-H since 1977
Re: Restoration - which model?
Actually it applies to most cars anyway, lots of great marques use other manufacturers parts: Aston Martin, Maserati, De Tomaso and the list goes on and on.kees wrote:Applies to most Jensens anyway if you look at it that way. They were always a mush-mash of parts.Joerg wrote:CV8 !!!
JH is a nice car, but is it really a JENSEN?
My 10 cents.
Kees Oudesluijs
The JH is obviously a Jensen, in my view.
JOC Member 10653
1968 Jensen Interceptor 115/2737
1972 Triumph TR6 PI
1967 E-Type Jaguar S1 4.2 OTS
1948 MG TC
1968 Jensen Interceptor 115/2737
1972 Triumph TR6 PI
1967 E-Type Jaguar S1 4.2 OTS
1948 MG TC