The Jensen Owners' Club

Joe Schiavone wrote:Tim. I do not have all the answers but you have to keep the engine running at the correct temp. My objective is total comfort at a relative easy effort. RacerJoe

So, have you installed a thermostat and got the Air-Conditioning working yet?

I went with 160 degree thermostat. The AC is not charged up yet. I am trying to charge up my charge account. My AC compressor elec clutch was staging and made a mess in the engine compartment with dust everywhere. Waiting for amazon to deliver some materials to get rid of all the mess which is solidly attached to the hood underside and the radiator top etc. I have several hours of clean up to do. Low cost but high labor. RacerJoe

But....But......
You were quite emphatic that your idea of running without a thermostat and using a restrictor plate was the way you were going to go!
What made you change your mind?

Correction. I was in no way saying you should do. I wrote that the race team played with a restrictor and was able to control the flow necessary to get the results they wanted. Ending up in bringing the end temps to where all was well. My suggestion was to play with the opening size. Sorry you did not read my post as intended. RacerJoe

My post pertaining to overheating was information I was privi to from the factory race team effort in Mazda Miata factory effort in the 1990 World Challenge effort here in the US the design of the front grill opening was much similar to many Interceptors that have parts missing that were originally installed to force as much air as possible. I was lucky to buy a Third owner car that had not been tampered with. I never had a overheating problem till the radiator spuded water and I replaced it with a thicker core radiator new. Some people do not have a heat sink problem. A lot of people do. It is impossible to know all the variables. My car has almost no areas that air can not go from grill opening through the radiator and with the air extractors I build up less engine compartment back pressure I choose to go with a 160 thermostat so as not to have heat buildup in the engine and have to play with catch up. If I came across a bit harsh I apologize. I did feel I needed to make that clear. Best to all. We all need it. RacerJoe

Last outing at night in the 70 's with Windows up and wife in the car. The wife will let you know if she is too hot or too cool. The car passed heat build up test. So far the heat sink buildup has been negated and I have succeeded in overcoming the the excessive heat buildup problem. Racer Joe

Joe Schiavone wrote:Last outing at night in the 70 's with Windows up and wife in the car. The wife will let you know if she is too hot or too cool. The car passed heat build up test. So far the heat sink buildup has been negated and I have succeeded in overcoming the the excessive heat buildup problem. Racer Joe

Come on, Joe, do a proper test.
Like a 90-mile trip in 90-degree heat in summer.
At 90 mph.

Hey, do you remember Joe 90?

I have run out of hot weather but with my my evacuation fans running I am getting no hot air in the car I will have to wait till next year as the 80 degree days are gone. RacerJoe

Joe Schiavone wrote:I have run out of hot weather but with my my evacuation fans running I am getting no hot air in the car I will have to wait till next year as the 80 degree days are gone. RacerJoe

You made this an interesting thread, Joe.
You pursued your objective with imagination and determination, and got the result you wanted.
And I confess to having been highly skeptical that it would work.
Well done!

Great job Joe!

So pleased all your endeavours have made an already great car an even better place to be in.

It's reassuring to know that tackling the root cause of the problem i.e. hot running engine in a confined space with little ventilation,can be resolved.

Tim.

I have tried to post as much information on the correction of a high heat buildup in the engine compartment tea nsfering to the seating area. I am delighted with the results as the car passed the wife test. I also had a series of posts on converting the factory brake rotor to anXJS Jaguar 4 pod caliper that works extremely well but it is a complete system not just one or two parts. From 60 mph the car will all but put you in the windshield if you keep your foot on the brake pedal. I did not want to go to 17” wheels. RacerJoe. You

Good news for me. I now have found my blown fuse for my blower fan and vaccine hoses sorted for the heater A/C system so I will be able to finish my system in the heat of the on coming summer with the air conditioning running as I said I would at the beginning of this saga. I hope to meet some of you all on the other side of the pond. RacerJoe

I have decided to go to a warmer or higher degree thermostat. In search for higher horsepower I feel the higher temp will help my effort. I was reading a 1974 Chrysler factory workshop manual and the factory Imperials came stock with a 195 degree thermostat. The factory also in tbeworkshop manual also stated in hot weather with the A/C on To use neutral to keep the rpms up when possible. Back in 74 the factory was aware of heat buildup with these big block cars the purpose of starting out with a 160 was to get in front of the heat buildup but until it USA problem the factory wants the higher engine temps. This is all based on Chrysler workshop manual. Racers

For whatever it's worth, the Mopar Performance Parts book "BIG BLOCK 'B-RB' ENGINES" published in 1998 for guidance on Chrysler engine racing and performance modifications, there is a passage on page 216 that reads:

"... For most high performance off-road applications, high engine temperature is undesirable. For these applications, install a 160F thermostat. It will help the engine run cooler.
Caution: 160 degreeF thermostats should NOT be used in other than high endurance racing vehicles. Use of 160F thermostats in vehicles other than this can result in serious engine damage."

That's all there was with no further explanation. I read elsewhere that the issue is not getting hot enough at 160 to clear water from combustion out of the oil, resulting over time in the formation of acidic gummy stuff that clogs the engine, but still unclear exactly what the Mopar Performance team meant. I run a 160F based on the advice of others, but the engine usually gets to 180F anyway, so it just spends a little more time under 180F. Not sure if a 160F is a real benefit or not, but sounds like maybe a good idea to change the oil often when using one (?).

I think in most vehicles that this engine was installed in there is a lot more room for airflow around the engine. Cold air flowing around an engine aids the cooling.

If anybody is lucky enough to have an Interceptor that runs cooler than 180F I would also suggest changing there 160 thermostat for a higher temp but in the real world most Interceptors run well above 160.

The problem with a 180 thermostat is with the fans cutting in at 195 you are in a situation that the lowest temperature the engine will run at and the temp the fans are cutting in is all a bit close and has little reserve.

Steve