What about firewall insulation?proving that the car contains no asbestos
C-V8 MkII 104/2235
- VFK44
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Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
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Stephen, Epping, Essex
Stephen, Epping, Essex
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
That's the thing. To import a classic car into Australia now there can't be any asbestos at all. Not even in a heater box or caulking compound.VFK44 wrote:What about firewall insulation?proving that the car contains no asbestos
1964 Jensen CV-8 II
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Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
Hi Rohan,
What insulation material did you use for your shed walls? Is it a foil faced insulation board?
Cheers,
Basil
What insulation material did you use for your shed walls? Is it a foil faced insulation board?
Cheers,
Basil
1970 Interceptor MkII 123/3798
1973 JH MkI 1141/12698
1973 JH MkI 1141/12698
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
I believe it may be Air-Cell Insulshed. Behind the foil is foam.Basil McKinley wrote:Hi Rohan,
What insulation material did you use for your shed walls? Is it a foil faced insulation board?
Cheers,
Basil
It makes a massive difference during Summer and it also makes a considerable difference during Winter. For instance last night it got down to minus 3 and inside the shed it only went down to 7 degrees C.
I also like the way that it reflects the light and how it makes the shed lighter as a result.
1964 Jensen CV-8 II
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
The car looks much better with the Rostyle wheels back on complete with 195R15 tyres. These tyres are much closer in diameter to the original tyres than the 185R15 tyres that were on it when I purchased it.
IMHO these cars look best when the tyre diameter is close to original. Unfortunately this isn't a simple process with a 15" wheel. It can be achieved by using a 670-15 crossply tyre or using a Pirrelli 205VR15 CN72. The crossply won't be good for directional stability and the CN72 is too wide for the original rim.
I also chased down a set of the original Austin style wheels.
IMHO these cars look best when the tyre diameter is close to original. Unfortunately this isn't a simple process with a 15" wheel. It can be achieved by using a 670-15 crossply tyre or using a Pirrelli 205VR15 CN72. The crossply won't be good for directional stability and the CN72 is too wide for the original rim.
I also chased down a set of the original Austin style wheels.
1964 Jensen CV-8 II
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
205/15 on 6 inch rim welded to the original wheel center.
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I own some of the odd Jensen
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
That does look very nice Joerg.205/15 on 6 inch rim welded to the original wheel center.
I was planning to go that route with widened riveted outers but the factory steel wheels really are made of very narrow gauge steel. The mounting face is only 0.13" which is half the thickness of a 1970's Ford Falcon wheel with the car being of similar size, weight and power. I was just too scared that I'd end up with cracked wheels.
Next I was hoping to use the Image wheels with factory hubcaps but due to the additional thickness of the rim I wasn't sure that they were going to clear the handbrake mechanism. Somewhere around the 4.5" backspace should be where it will clear but that will widen the track by nearly an inch.
It was the three cars of Chris Ribbe that I really fell in love with before purchasing my car. I liked the look of the wire wheels but they still didn't quite look right to me. I figured that what I didn't like was that the tyres weren't period correct, the suspension on the cars was lower than I was comfortable with and the tyres protruded too far outward (especially at the front).
I have just ordered a set of Jensen spec wire wheel adapters and spinners as well as one Turrino wire wheel. I have decided to go with a 16" rim which gives me a wide selection of period correct 600-16 sized tyres. I'll be using a Michelin Pilote X 600-16 (actually a radial tyre with a 270 km/h speed rating) that has the same outer diameter as the original tyres. Because the tyre is nice and large in diameter there is no need to lower the car in order to fill the guard. The tyre is a bit wider than the original tyre but not as wide as the CN72. Due to the extra clearance of the 16" wheel the wheel should clear the handbrake mechanism which means that I can keep the factory wheel offset and track. This will mean that the tyres will be much further inboard then on Chris's car and about 1/2" inboard compared to your car. I'm about 80% confident that the car will look great and 20% confident that it will look awful, hence my reason for only ordering one wheel.
1964 Jensen CV-8 II
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
My brother came down for a weekend and we had a working bee to strip out all of the car's mechanicals. It appears that when the body and chassis was repaired they didn't rebuild the suspension. This was the first time that I have ever worked on a car that has been exposed to the salted roads. The amount of penetrant and heat that was used was almost as alarming as the number of bolts that were broken.
A couple of "interesting" things were discovered during the tear down. I'm quite relieved that I took over ownership of this car as these faults could easily have lead to an accident that could have destroyed the car and killed the occupants.
A couple of "interesting" things were discovered during the tear down. I'm quite relieved that I took over ownership of this car as these faults could easily have lead to an accident that could have destroyed the car and killed the occupants.
1964 Jensen CV-8 II
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
I have spent too much time of late doing stuff like this:
1964 Jensen CV-8 II
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
Never ever - wire wheels on my CV8.
Any car after the 541R should have proper steel wheels
There is something serious under the bonnet...
I own some of the odd Jensen
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
Damn you Joerg. I thought that I had finally made up my mind and then you say that and Turrino upwardly revised the price that they quoted me.Joerg wrote:
Never ever - wire wheels on my CV8.
Any car after the 541R should have proper steel wheels
There is something serious under the bonnet...
The factory steel wheels just make me think of the Studebakers Larks that raced at the Armstrong 500 races in Bathurst during the 1960's. Each year they would qualify on the front row and lead the race until their brakes failed or their wheels broke.
Looking at race cars with wire wheels I can see plenty of 4 to 5 litre capacity cars. The largest I have seen is the ISO Grifo / Bizzarrini and they use a 327 Chevrolet. I was however assured that wire wheels would be fine for the application and you do see quite a few Big Block Iso Grifos with wire wheels.
Did you ever get a set of Image wheels made? Doing that in 16" would be an interesting option.
1964 Jensen CV-8 II
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
It has been a long time coming but we just removed the top sections of the cross-member. These photos are of the "good side".
The piece of RHS is temporarily welded in place as a jig. You can see the six scribe marks on the RHS which mark the position of the original five holes.
And this is what the top piece looked like once removed.
Note the thick layer of rust between the two sheets of steel where the original design allowed water to become trapped.
The piece of RHS is temporarily welded in place as a jig. You can see the six scribe marks on the RHS which mark the position of the original five holes.
And this is what the top piece looked like once removed.
Note the thick layer of rust between the two sheets of steel where the original design allowed water to become trapped.
1964 Jensen CV-8 II
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
Steering wheel removal
1. Cut power
2. Remove the cap. It should come out by hand you may need to get your fingernails in behind it.
3. Disconnect the wire to the cap. Put the screw back in for safekeeping
4. Turn the collet with the four holes clockwise. You may need a a strap type oil filter remover.
5. The collet acts like the chuck on a drill. Keep turning the collet clockwise until you can feel that the wheel is free to slide.
6. Slide the wheel down the shaft.
7. Remove the circlip
8. Slide the steering wheel off and don't tug on the wire in the process
1. Cut power
2. Remove the cap. It should come out by hand you may need to get your fingernails in behind it.
3. Disconnect the wire to the cap. Put the screw back in for safekeeping
4. Turn the collet with the four holes clockwise. You may need a a strap type oil filter remover.
5. The collet acts like the chuck on a drill. Keep turning the collet clockwise until you can feel that the wheel is free to slide.
6. Slide the wheel down the shaft.
7. Remove the circlip
8. Slide the steering wheel off and don't tug on the wire in the process
1964 Jensen CV-8 II
Re: C-V8 MkII 104/2235
Horn Slip Ring
Those prongs locate the brass ring on the plastic insulation ring.
The shaft is removed by pushing it inside the cabin. The shaft is too long to drop it out towards the front and if you do try and take it out towards the front first, the horn wire can get trapped between the shaft and the upper bush meaning that you can't get the shaft out (don't ask me how I know this). So best to cut the horn wire off flush with the end of the shaft before you even disconnect the shaft from the universal joint.
Here are some part numbers for the repair kits. They are for Jaguar XK, MK1, MK2, V8, 420, S-Type.
Those prongs locate the brass ring on the plastic insulation ring.
The shaft is removed by pushing it inside the cabin. The shaft is too long to drop it out towards the front and if you do try and take it out towards the front first, the horn wire can get trapped between the shaft and the upper bush meaning that you can't get the shaft out (don't ask me how I know this). So best to cut the horn wire off flush with the end of the shaft before you even disconnect the shaft from the universal joint.
Here are some part numbers for the repair kits. They are for Jaguar XK, MK1, MK2, V8, 420, S-Type.
1964 Jensen CV-8 II