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by ajm541s » Sat Oct 07, 2017 4:08 pm

Excellent!
Tony Marshall
JML 1967-74
Ex owner Jensen-Healey HEA 4K
JOC 7828
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by Trevithick » Mon Oct 09, 2017 4:03 pm

ajm541s wrote:Excellent!

Well worth our chat.
SP 131/4980.
The Joker in the SPack.
JH HEA4K
A small bit of history.
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by Trevithick » Fri Oct 13, 2017 10:36 am

New splash guards and number plates.
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SP 131/4980.
The Joker in the SPack.
JH HEA4K
A small bit of history.
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by kees » Fri Oct 13, 2017 11:07 am

Now make sure you seal the splash guards all around. The standard rubber seals are rather useless and leave a gap to the wing and a gaping hole in the top. I used butylene compound (very messy) to seal my old J-H and this did the job very effectively.
Using the same stuff I also sealed the top of the front wings to the inner wing from the inside.
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by Trevithick » Fri Oct 13, 2017 12:39 pm

kees wrote:Now make sure you seal the splash guards all around. The standard rubber seals are rather useless and leave a gap to the wing and a gaping hole in the top. I used butylene compound (very messy) to seal my old J-H and this did the job very effectively.
Using the same stuff I also sealed the top of the front wings to the inner wing from the inside.
Kees Oudesluijs

We didn’t use the standard guards and made new ones that fit properly. Different type of seal used as well, one with an extra lip so it seals correctly. Tiger seal used on the inner metal/metal edges. Voids treated with cavity wax.
SP 131/4980.
The Joker in the SPack.
JH HEA4K
A small bit of history.
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by Trevithick » Fri Mar 23, 2018 1:35 pm

Getting a bit serious under the bonnet. Chasing coolant leaks, new alternator bearings, new cam belt, tensioner, repaired wiring to distributor, rewired back end of engine bay, remaking the cam cover mounts, sorted out the bonnet catch. Underneath we’ve had a big tighten up, fitted proper pins on the hand brake linkage, rewired the overdrive new diff seal, new prop bolts and much more. Interior is mostly out at present partially to modify the drivers seat for lanky me and a few wiring mods and the new old stock handbrake lever and gaiter mods for gearstick and handbrake. Still to do new brake master cylinder, finish the exhaust and stuff as we find it. It’s turned into a bit of a project, but it has some big trips ahead of it so I want to make sure it’s all good.
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SP 131/4980.
The Joker in the SPack.
JH HEA4K
A small bit of history.
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Trevithick
 
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Location: Wild West Cornwall

by Trevithick » Fri Mar 23, 2018 1:37 pm

Spot what’s missing?
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SP 131/4980.
The Joker in the SPack.
JH HEA4K
A small bit of history.
User avatar
Trevithick
 
Posts: 1937
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Location: Wild West Cornwall

by Grant » Fri Mar 23, 2018 10:59 pm

I'm sure the Alternator and the carb thief's have stolen something haven't they Mark? :shock:
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by Trevithick » Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:37 am

Good point but they were there to start (i’m sure) but the item in question is meant to be between the loose nut on the chassis and the spare loose bolt on the block :wink:
SP 131/4980.
The Joker in the SPack.
JH HEA4K
A small bit of history.
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by kees » Sat Mar 24, 2018 10:58 am

Trevithick wrote:Good point but they were there to start (i’m sure) but the item in question is meant to be between the loose nut on the chassis and the spare loose bolt on the block :wink:


No doubt the earthing strap?

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by kees » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:08 am

I also noticed a pressure regulator?? in the fuel line. No use if you have the original spec SU AUF301 or the later equivalent Burlen/SU AZX1308 fuel pump that has a delivery fuel pressure of 3,8psi.

When I investigated the workings and construction of SU fuel pumps to be able to rebuilt and set them properly I found out that the pressure is only controlled by a spring pushing out the fuel so it is physically impossible to have a higher fuel pressure, leaving the pressure regulator an unneccessary extra complication.

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by Trevithick » Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:21 am

We’re yet to attack the fuel system, we may change to a facet pump as the one on the SP is superb. I prefer braided fuel lines as well so the regulator may end up next to the car rather than in it.
SP 131/4980.
The Joker in the SPack.
JH HEA4K
A small bit of history.
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Trevithick
 
Posts: 1937
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Location: Wild West Cornwall

by kees » Sat Mar 24, 2018 1:16 pm

Stick to the SU301 or AZX1308 with points as they can usually be repaired along the roadside if need be. They rarely give trouble. The one in my first J-H lasted at least 160.000mls without any attention and even after 1985 when the car was laid up and only occasionally started up afterwards it did not falter until a few years ago, the points had corroded. After a set of new points it is now working fine again. Facet pumps can be very noisy.
If you do not like the contact breaker points in the SU pump you can always fit an electronic conversion kit or fit an electronic AZX1308EN pump.

Kees Oudesluijs
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by Trevithick » Sun Mar 25, 2018 8:30 pm

Cheers Kees, or just carry a small hammer.
SP 131/4980.
The Joker in the SPack.
JH HEA4K
A small bit of history.
User avatar
Trevithick
 
Posts: 1937
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Location: Wild West Cornwall

by kees » Mon Mar 26, 2018 8:19 am

Proper maintainance and regular use. No hamer needed. If a hammer is needed the points are worn or corroded and need attention, but as said before it never happened to me when the car was in use. Only after the car had been stood for many years needed I to use a hammer to get the pump going.
Officially you should run a bit of flowerpaper between the points every year for maintainance.

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