My New Interceptor - '72 Mk 111, 133-5597

[RockyUSA]

What Might These Be?

My Guesses:

Some sort of very hot power dissipation resistor - for the Fan / Blower?

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A vacuum canister for the ventilation system? The reason I can't get fresh air?

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The emergency brake sensing switch?

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Thanks in advance for the help....

[Grant]

Hi Rocky,
1)The 1st pic is the reostat for the dimming of the dash clock lighting.
2) This vacum cannister on the passenger side of a LHD car should be the cannister that operates the flap that diverts from the sending the air to the screen from the heater matrix when the dial is on the screen pic and then diverting the air to the footwell in any other postiton.
3) Rocky .. this looks like a disconnected handbrake switch

Francis is the Man

[RockyUSA]

Thanks, Grant -

That's a heck of a rheostat for dimming the clock!

Thanks for the insight.

Now I need to figure out who Francis is!

Rocky

[Grant]

Thanks, Grant -

That's a heck of a rheostat for dimming the clock!

Thanks for the insight.

Now I need to figure out who Francis is!

Rocky

Rocky ... the rheostat does all the clocks (dimming)
Hahhahaha Francis is a good Friend of mine .. thought I would just copy him in for fun and Giggles

[Frankoid]

It is a big rheostat for the clock and dials, typical Jensen overengineering.! The rheostats for the fans are much bigger and are located under the battery in the bonnet (or hood!)

[slotcarone]

The early 133-series cars carry chassis plates or other identification marking them as 125-series cars. Some of the factory papers refer to them as 125-series cars and this carried over to the vehicles themselves. Similarly, some of the early 140-series cars (the LHD J-series Interceptors) were commenced as 133-series chassis and, although they were given J-series (3C prefix) engines and renumbered in the 140-series, a few still bear 133-series markings. Factory papers for the first LHD J-series Interceptors carry both 133 and 140-series numberings.

As regards the changeover from Interceptor II to III, there was a short gap between the last 125-series chassis (serial 5432) and the first 133-series (serial 5474). However, the chassis came off the line continuously and those who were numbering them had no idea whether or when the change from 125 to 133 would take place in production. Maybe they should have been better prepared but what we see in practice is the 125 being overstamped 133 where necessary. The last of these I know about is 5620 which left the line in February 1972, six months after the start of Interceptor III production. It took about two months to build an Interceptor, so you would think it should have been straightened out by late 1971, but there's the evidence in the metal to the contrary.

This is all very interesting for owners but can spell trouble when the licensing people come to look at a car. Understandably they are less forgiving and more suspicious of obvious alterations. You do have a defence if questioned in that there are books about this sort of thing.

Hi Richard,
Your number of the last overstamped VIN plate must be accurate. I have 133/5612 and it looks like it was re stamped after it was welded onto the car.

[RockyUSA]

It is a big rheostat for the clock and dials, typical Jensen overengineering.! The rheostats for the fans are much bigger and are located under the battery in the bonnet (or hood!)

OK - I have seen those. They look like big hair curlers on a plate under the battery!

[RockyUSA]

Solved my speedo problem (using Dakota Digital speedo drive, mounted under the seat) to operate my speedometer. The Dakota box is driven from the Speed Sensor on the GM 4L60E transmission.

I had to shorten my speedo cable, and then use this 90* speedometer drive adapter (Smiths's BG 2413/00). It's 1:1, and physically screws onto the Speedometer drive to retain it.

It works great. It has taken the "bounce" out of my speedometer.

Rocky

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[RockyUSA]

Went to a party in the local area - took "Big Wild".

A couple of pix for your enjoyment...

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[hemi]

Very cool cars - but man, how old is that cactus?? Its huge!

Love the Pantera.

Matt

[RockyUSA]

Legend around here has it that the saguaros don't grow an arm until they are 75 years old. They grow about 2-3" per year. That big one seems to me like it's 150-200 years old.

They frown on us cutting them down to count the rings!

[RockyUSA]

Got a chance to go through the Parking Brake system on the back end of my car. I need new pads. Just as a note, it seems that the outer ones wear more than the inner pads... Probably due to lack of adjustment, and the PO's just pulling on the lever harder.

Actually, if you think about it - these pads should never wear, unless someone is driving around with the parking brake on...

The system has some of the craziest articulating linkage I have seen.

When was the last time someone here greased the central pivot linkage, between the gas tank and the differential? I sure didn't know I was supposed to do that!

Here's some pictures for your enjoyment (P.S. The parts are painted now, so they look even better!

Parking Brake Pad Mount Assembly with Self-Adjuster

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Central Pivot Linkage Showing Mounting Swivel

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Central Pivot Linkage Showing Zerk Fitting

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[RockyUSA]

I got one of these kits from FBO systems to manually limit your timing. By mechanically limiting your advance, I can now control the mechanical advance, and limit the static (idle) to 17* BTDC, and the full mechanical advance to 35* BTDC.

I also have got several sets distributor advance springs to allow me to "Curve" the distributor. I selected a set, but as I don't' really have a way to evaluate the distributor except by revving the engine, I am going to stick with the medium weight springs for now.

Here's the insides of the distributor, the timing limit plate, and the springs mounted, and the dizzyy assembled.

Dizzy Housing

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Limit Plate

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Springs Installed

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Dizzy Reassembled

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Would I buy another one?

Probably. It's good to get the assortment of springs and the plate as a set. Plus the plate seems to take all the guesswork out of limiting your advance. I would not buy his "tuning manual". Maybe there is some useful information in there if you are a drag racer, but the majority of it was not specific enough to my car or a Jensen in general to really be very useful to me.

[RockyUSA]

I decided to go in and do some cleanup in the rear-end area, and I thought that some of these pictures may be of interest to some of our members.

Here are some pictures of what Dana 44 gears look inside a Salsbury rear-end. Not very remarkable, but they work to change the ratio at a reasonable price...

Attempted view of pinion

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ring gear and carrier

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Here are the measured dimensions of the shackle bushings....

Bushing Dimensions

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Here's what the parking brake components look like when they are painted...

Painted Parking Brake Components

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[RockyUSA]

Here is the parking brake linkage assembled....

Parking Brake - Rear View

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Parking Brake - Side View

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Here are some pictures of the Muffler Hangers. Note that I have "custom" mufflers, they are not the stock units. My previous owner used to own a Meineke Car Care Center / Muffler shop and fabbed up the exhaust system. I have to say he did a pretty good job - He ran 2 1/4" tube all the way back, slightly smaller (oval) muflers and had a O2 sensor bung installed the drivers pipe....

I got the muffler mounts from Delta Motorsports in Phoenix. Fast shipping, and I thought the prices were pretty reasonable....

Note that the forward hanger mounts have a little access hole (with a plug) under the passenger rear seats. This allows you to tighten the hangar bolt much easier.

New Muffler Hanger Mount

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Muffler Mounted - Hanging From Hangar

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Finally, I don't know if I posted this or not, but I replaced some really crappy insulation in the "bonnet" with some nicer-looking foil-backed heat insulation material.

Bonnet Insulation

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