Zombie 133 5709

[americanjohn]

Hello Everyone!

After dragging my feet for a while, I have finally motivated myself to post some pictures and information on 133 5709. I consult the JOC Forum often, always an excellent source of information (and humor), and wanted to chip in.

This "project" is a total Zombie – not one of the scary, fast moving ones like in 28 Days Later, but the slow, shuffling ones from Shaun of the Dead. I’ve now made it my mission to return the car to the road – including some discrete technology updates to enhance performance and reliability.

Why an Interceptor? I wrenched on lots of cars as I was growing up – there were always in ample supply as most of them totally rusted out after 5-6 years in NW Pennsylvania. A great-uncle of mine from the south used to visit us every summer. Every year he came in a different car, but always a big coupe with a big V8. On time in the late 70s, he showed up in a Mark III. Compared to the Pontiacs, Buicks and Oldsmobiles of the era, it looked like a spaceship and I was hooked. Many years later I decided to rejuvenate my old hobby, mostly as stress therapy, and the choice was easy. I didn’t realize then that there would be so much “therapy” involved.

I found 133 5709 in Dallas, TX. It was from California, then spent 25 years in Arizona in the harsh sun. As the second owner didn’t have a chance to register it, I believe it is 1 owner.

The Good: car is completely original and has all parts.
The Bad: full blown restore required, but I knew this from the onset.
The Ugly: exterior is totally scorched with good metal, but the interior is a total loss. Trapped moisture caused rusting from the inside out.

Dallas / Fort Worth

As found in TX - note groovy 50s milk truck in background.

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Is that hatch interchangeable with a Pacer?

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Arrival Germany

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White substance on bonnet is snow, something this Jensen has probably never seen..

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the effects of UV rays on man and machine are strikingly similar..

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[americanjohn]

Interior Removal

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Think these can be saved with a little liquid leather?

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[americanjohn]

Engine Removal

note intricate heater core bypass....

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funky sludge build up on corroded water pump intake is not a good omen (more on that later)

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[americanjohn]

Media Blasting

After months of disassembly (did it myself with a friend), I went on summer holiday last year. When I came back the shop had media blasted the car with soda, which exposed every rust spot, dent and about 50 pounds of body lead. Very pleased about the condition of the front - it looks like it just rolled of the line (did they have an actual "line" in West Bromich?). Unfortunately, a long time ago the car took a hit in the rear. It was fixed extremely well, the body man at the shop didn't notice beforehand. Back then they drilled holes in the rear quarter to straighten and then covered with body filler.

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You can see the original stamping lines in the steel.

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They shot on a thin layer of zinc primer to protect from surface rust. Looks sort of cool.

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[VFK44]

Great story for a Saturday morning. Complete opposite of the usual problems of rusty bodywork!

[americanjohn]

Bodywork

To quote Inspector Harry Calahan: "A man has got to know his limitations", so I started looking for a good bodyshop. I was lucky enough to find a young guy who does great work so I took the Interceptor to him. After looking over the repaired damage to the rear, we decided to replace both quarters. The originals probably could have been saved, but the amount of effort involved and the end result played a large roll. So I ordered both quarters - 1 from Appleyard and 1 from Martin Robey. Amazing that these are still being stamped. When I mentioned the cost to my body man, he told me he pays almost twice as much for new Porsche quarters! We also decided to do the center section of the outer sills as they had pinholes.

sorry about the mobile phone quality...

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Within a few months he had completed the big pieces, the real fun started on the interior floor. He had to go find thicker steel sheeting - they don't build them like they used to.

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I really like this picture. With the E-Type front end and the Land Rover sign, it makes you think it was specialty shop for British classics. This is simply a coincidence! My body guy told me "this is the first and last Jensen I will work on"!

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[americanjohn]

Thanks Stephen - I didn't get as lucky as I thought on the rust, but it sure could have been worse!

[americanjohn]

Interior Repaint

We're approaching present day, now. When I had the exterior soda blasted, I also wanted to have the inside done as well. The shop was reluctant, though, as the material winds up in every nook and cranny - during painting it has the tendency to be blown out. So I decided to just tackle the job myself After months of wire wheel and abrasive pad work, I finally was able to remove all the surface rust, grime and glue residue. I should have called Mike Rowe for this dirty job. The stuff was everywhere. Next time (if there is one) it's media blasting in and out.

I decided to use POR 15, which is really tough and well suited for this type of application. Also, you can brush or roll it on. I'll bet I have at least 100 hours in this little sub-project.

Good news is that - after the front suspension and rear axle are out - the car can finally go to paint.

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[Robinson D]

Great stuff! Keep us posted.

[grottenolm]

Really a great story, please keep us posted. Reminds me of my restoration.

[Mark I]

Interior Repaint


I decided to use POR 15, which is really tough and well suited for this type of application. Also, you can brush or roll it on. I'll bet I have at least 100 hours in this little sub-project.

Looks fantastic. Could you let me know about POR 15 - maybe a link.

This is one of the projects I wanted to do while the Coupe is still at my place.

Thank you.

[grottenolm]

Interior Repaint


I decided to use POR 15, which is really tough and well suited for this type of application. Also, you can brush or roll it on. I'll bet I have at least 100 hours in this little sub-project.

Looks fantastic. Could you let me know about POR 15 - maybe a link.

This is one of the projects I wanted to do while the Coupe is still at my place.

Thank you.

POR 15 is a rust inhibitor paint (hope this translation is correct) - it prevents rust. I used a similar paint called brantho korrux or brantho 3 in 1. Based on the experience of many users this was my material of choice, so far it does the job. There is a great German site called Korrosionsschutz-depot.de - they advise and sell very good stuff, unfortunately all in German.

[Mark I]

I found the brantho korrux in GB. Do did you first coat it with POR 15 then brantho korrux. Or just the brantho korrux.

Thank you

Mark I

[grottenolm]

I used first brantho korrux as a primer and then 2 to 3 coats of brantho 3 in 1 as a rust inhibitor paint. This is according to the recommendation of the experts I mentioned in my other post. I used the same stuff also for the underbody and a clear wax - so I could detect any potential rust very quickly (rather than it hiding under a layer of underbody sealer)

[americanjohn]

Thanks a lot for the words of encouragement, Guys!

On the POR 15 http://www.por15.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - I knew it from when I was still in the States, but did get it in Germany: http://www.korrosionsschutz-depot.de/ro ... -15-lacke/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It stands for Paint Over Rust. There are other similar products available such as KSB (started by I believe some of the people from POR 15). They are polyurethane based and more of a coating as opposed to a paint. Very tough and flexible - you can hit it with a hammer and it doesn't chip. You just have to be very meticulous on surface preparation and follow instructions exactly, which is the case for any paint, though. Also, a respirator, long sleeves and gloves. It gives off nasty fumes and if you get it on your skin you have to wear it off over like 2 weeks (don't ask why I know this ).

As grottenolm notes, Brantho Korrux is definitely a good product and well known here. There were using it on big EUR 911 F models at the shop. In my case, the interior had surface rust / pitting and with all of the hard to reach places I wanted something that I could roll / brush on and let flow into cracks / seams. If the interior had been media blasted, I probably would have sprayed something like Brantho.