115/3067 bought back from France

[Kevin Birch]

Finally got around to a niggly problem, the courtesy lights in my car have never worked, so thought I'd have a go. After studying the wiring diagram, suddenly realised the 2 side interior lamps are not on this circuit, no wonder there was a lack of wiring behind them. So the lights that come on when the doors are opened are the red ones on the end of the doors and the light below the mirror, simple circuit, I thought, shouldn't take too long. Drivers door light had both wires connected to earth behind the rev counter, and when power was supplied to the correct( purple) wire, it lit up. Passenger side was even easier, bulb missing, so was easy fix. However the mirror light was a real pain, according the the diagram, the purple/black (swithed earh) at the mirror, connects near the passenger A post at a 3 way connector. This was duly found, and the wires tested, one going to the passenger door, one to the drivers door, but no continuity from the 3rd to the mirror. and with the wire disappearing into the loom behind the dash time to trace wires. The wire from the mirror headed towards the passenger A post, but then back to the C post, where I found a joint behind the trim. From there it heads down to the floor at the rear passenger footwell then forward to the A post, to the 3 way connector previously mentioned. Why it doesn't just go down the A post instead of backwards and then forwards along the car is anybody's guess. Inspecting the wiring along the inner sill, I found the wire melted and corroded, probably due to welding having been done, duly repaired the light should now work. No, there was no where for it to connect on the mirror, and then realised a wire was missing off the back of the mirror switch, a new one duly soldered on and hey presto a switching light from the doors. This little investigation had taken me over 2 hours with loads of trim removal, just for one wire, no wonder it had been left. Now just need new door switches to get it to all work as it should, but that bit should be easy.

Another job done was to re-align the drivers door as there was a gap at the top when shut, causing considerable wind noise, but that is now sorted. All in all a productive day.

[Kevin Birch]

Put some miles on the old girl this weekend, the first real drive since re-attaching the vacuum tank(chassis tube). I didn't expect it to make as much difference as it has to the brakes, it actually stops now! The pedal is a bit softer/ more travel, I may bleed them all again, and check the servo to master cylinder adjustment to see if I can improve it more.

[Kevin Birch]

As previously mentioned, brakes are better now, but after talking to Nigel on Saturday , have bit the bullet, and ordered a set of 4 pot calipers from Robeys. They're BCC units, cast aluminium, and £150 cheaper than Fosseway's aluminium units. Obviously won't look as nice, but you can't really see them behind the wheels anyway.
Will post photos when they arrive, and when they're fitted.

[Toby]

I am using the same BCC calipers on "Toby" and they are the ones fitted to the Practical Classics Interceptor. BCC are located a couple of miles from me and i have had the opportunity to witness their production and meet with their team. BCC are a part of WES Hard Metal Engineering who do developmental work for Jaguar Land Rover and other motor manufacturers, i was very impressed with their set up.

[Kevin Birch]

Thanks Toby, some good info there, I was only aware of the Fosseway calipers, until Nigel told me he had fitted the BCC ones and now he doesn't have to drive his car like a ship, looking 2 miles ahead to decide whether to apply the brakes. Its nice to know others have fitted them and are happy too.

[Kevin Birch]

Fitted the calipers yesterday, a little bit more than bolt on replacement, took me all day. Easy enough to get the old calipers off, and bolt the new ones on, getting them centrally spaced. Put the wheel back on, and they are just catching when spinning the wheel. Did it a few times to get witness marks on caliper and wheel. It was just catching on the edge of the inner part of the Rostyle, so made up some spacers from penny washers just to push the wheel out 2mm, which has cured that problem. The next was the brake pipes, as the pipe connects to the bottom of the old caliper, but the top of the new one. In the kit 2 pipes are supplied, but these are link the old pipe to the caliper, so introducing another joint, or failure point. I made up 2 longer pipes, and re routed them around the top of the suspension, as I think this is a better way of doing it. The next issue was the thickness of the pads, such that they wouldn't fit. I was aware of this, as Nigel had said some material had to be removed from his pads to get them to fit. This was about 1mm from each pad, so plenty of meat left on them. Pedal now feels soft, but there is little effort to get it to stop now, and realise the pads will need to bed in, so 100 mile drive planned for tomorrow down the Severn Valley, should sort that out.

What came in the kit

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Supplied pipe, and one I made.

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As fitted

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As fitted

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Old and new calipers

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Not much difference in pad size,

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[Kevin Birch]

100 miles covered today, and brakes now pretty much bedded in, and the pedal starting to firm up. I can now lock the front wheels, with less pedal pressure
Money well spent. I will be contacting BCC to let them know the clearance issues, so that hopefully they can modify the product to suit, as it is up to us to feedback to the manufacturer otherwise they will never know. All in all I'm very pleased with the end product.

[Toby]

I am sure BCC will welcome your contribution to make their component truly a worthwhile replacement for the original fitment
Regards
Andy

[hemi]

Hi Kevin,

Great review, thanks for doing that - time for me to start saving!

I'm no engineer but I don't think the use of washers to space the wheel away from the calliper is healthy for the wheel studs. I know available spacers cover the face of the hub and distribute the load evenly, whereas the washer will concentrate it on the stud and possibly cause fatigue issues. In Australia, wheel spacers are prohibited for 'on road' use due to the added force applied to hubs / hub bearings, and stub shafts - I know Australian laws are weird at times, but spacers seem to strike fear in the hearts of most mechanical examiners and engineers down here. I appreciate you have pushed yours out only 2mm but I think it would be worth a second opinion. I apologise if i'm speaking out of turn, but would hate to see you have any problems.

Kind Regards,

Matt

[Kevin Birch]

Hi Mark,

I totally agree with you, I don't want the spacers there either, but was a quick temporary solution. I will be in contact with the manufacturer to resolve it, hopefully by being able to remove a tiny piece of material from the caliper, and for them to make the mod permanent on future products. I'm hoping it is a just as simple as I think it is, but these things have a habit of becoming complicated due to us non-professionals not quite realising the engineering procedures etc.

Watch this space, as some personal correspondence with another forum member has already fed back to BCC and they are very keen to resolve it, which is good news.

[Kevin Birch]

As some of you will know I have removed my engine and gearbox, see topic https://www.joc.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=26430" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. Initially I was just going to take the gearbox out, due to problems in Germany in September, but decided to do both as I wanted to get the heads off and whilst this far down the road inspect the engine for any wear, and remedy as appropriate. The gearbox is going off for overhaul, whilst I sort the engine out and tidy up the engine bay as it is filthy. Started stripping the engine already, heads are off and not too bad at the moment. Three exhaust manifold studs snapped, in the one head, which I was expecting as i had this happen on the other head a few months ago after changing a failed gasket. I'll just drill them out and re tap, which will be easier off the car, rather than on it which I did last time.The cooling jacket was blocked at the gasket on one of the banks, which would have affected the rear 2 cylinders 6 & 8, and this can be seen with the exhaust valves being a different colour. The bores are in good shape, no score marks and no lip at the top, so should respond to a hone and new rings, obviously I'll check further when I've got the pistons out.
I'll need to check the cam, as quite a few of the followers are dished, and one is actually pitted, which was causing a tapping sound on tick over, much like a manifold blow, but which disappeared when the revs increased. Hopefully the crank will be fine when I get that out and all I'll need to do is replace consumables.
Found what was left of that horrible foil coated matting under the inlet manifold. Is this necessary, and should I replace it?

Inlet manifold Insulation

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2 Exhaust valves a different colour , top right.

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[Chris_R]

Found what was left of that horrible foil coated matting under the inlet manifold. Is this necessary, and should I replace it?

I think that was an attempt to insulate the carburettor from engine heat from underneath. I found the same on my Mk1, but not on the Mk2.

[Kevin Birch]

Further strip down reveals cam shaft, crank shaft and pistons looking good. Will measure crank journals, but not expecting anything nasty, and check bores for taper etc. The one thing that is disturbing is the con rods have been stamped, some of the caps and some on the rods, but have not all have been put back in the right bores, e.g., no 8 piston was in no 2 bore, not really a problem if new pistons and bearings are being used. But need to make sure the rods and caps have been kept together. Here's my dilemma, all being well I'll keep the pistons, replace the rings and shells, so do I put the pistons back as I found them, or back in their marked bores? As I will be honing the bores I would put them back in the correct marked bores, as all (except the pistons) will need to bed in anyway. Quite a bit of slack in the timing chain, not knowing these engines, I would have thought it has stretched, or is this amount normal?

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[Grant]

Kev, note the pistons have an arrow on them to point to the front of the engine, all good news about the cam and bores, I'd put new followers and a timing chain set though Kev, you don't want any slack Kev
Not sure about your Dilema... you do what you feel comfy with Kev

[garyc]

Hello Kev

Just a thought and I haven't looked through all your posts but its either in their or you mentioned it to me another time that the crankshaft had been ground before and not sure if the bores were oversize already and that work had been done to engine by an engineer who had put a nameplate on your engine somewhere.

Im sure you would of taken that into account but just thought would mention it pretty sure it was your car but could be wrong

GaryC