115/3067 bought back from France

[Kevin Birch]

Hi Gary,

Hadn't thought of rubber around the fan casings, it makes sense, so might look into that, cheers. The filter is doing a good job at the moment, but I am wary that it could clog up and significantly reduce water flow, so am keeping my eye on regularly, checking it every 100-150 miles or so. The stuff that is being caught by it, consists of quite big metal flakes,which tends to suggest my water pump is circulating the water really well, to get these to the top of the radiator.

[garyc]

Hello Kevin
No problem.. your posts have been a big help to me.
Here's a few pictures below of fans with little or no rubber seal on and you can see the gaps between fan and rad.
The next picture with black air filter casing is after I've cleaned and painted a few things and fitted correct rubber not a perfect seal had to trim a bit but a big improvement.
Just realised you can see the orange VW Audi sticker on the fan motor.
The throttle cable,HT leads and dist cap are my next job
Gary

[rta50car]

Rod,

The fan is actually manufactured by Vemo, and fits loads of VAG cars. Part number is Vemo V15-01-1812, easily available on the net, Rejen supplied mine.
The blades fit the original cowling perfectly, but you will need to make some brackets to fit the fans, as their mounting points (3 bolts) are located nearer the blades than the original Lucas fans. I used some 25mm wide x 3mm thick steel to space them out about 35mm, but had to drill 3 new holes for each fan in the existing mounting bracket. There are three connections, one is negative, the other two are positive, with the middle connection running the fans at a lower RPM. I haven't used this, as I have just connected them to the existing wiring and want the fans to run at the max RPM. I may alter the wiring in the future so I can choose the speed, but not too bothered at the moment.

Kevin - Many thanks for this info. Gives me more options.

[Dion]

Yes, thanks for the info. Always good to know part numbers.
As an aside - why the rubber against the radiator? It was not used originally and I do not recall seeing something about it in the Service Bulletins so presumably there were no issues with the original setup.

[Grant]

Hi Grant,

I made the filter out of an old stainless steel sieve, and the just cut and shaped it by hand.
Pictures show the filter, in place on the radiator, and the crap it trapped in the past week, most of it rust scales. The top hose just goes over the filter and inlet to seal it all, and don't lose much coolant when checking it. I'm hoping that the amount of particles caught will reduce each time, now I'm running a good antifreeze mix.

Many thanks Gary .. Great Idea thank you for your time

[Kevin Birch]

Thought I was all set for next week, got the spare wheel out, to get the tyre changed, as its just legal here, but would probably fall foul of the law abroad. The spare wheel carrier promptly decided to split into its component parts. Nothing that a little bit of cleaning up, a spot of welding and paint shouldn't sort out.

What it should look like.

WP_20160524_001.jpg (387.54 KiB) Viewed 4676 times

What it actually looks like.

WP_20160524_002.jpg (377.54 KiB) Viewed 4676 times

WP_20160524_003.jpg (365.94 KiB) Viewed 4676 times

[Kevin Birch]

Spare wheel carrier now welded back together, and a couple of the circular pads repaired. Not the best of paint jobs, but at the moment haven't got the time to make it perfect, although looks better than it did before.

WP_20160529_001.jpg (306.52 KiB) Viewed 4627 times

[Kevin Birch]

Finally decided to do something about the brakes, as they need quite a heavy shove, and have steadily been getting worse. Last weekend it was taking an age for the brake pedal to return, and as I've rebuilt all the system bar the servo, this appears to be the issue, I've suspected it to be on it's way out for a while. I'm still on original Dunlop calipers, servo and master cylinder, and making some enquiries regarding getting the servo rebuilt, about a year ago, came to the conclusion that changing to a later servo & master cylinder would be the way to go.
Have purchased a mk3 servo, with new master cylinder and a pedal box, as I believe the mountings are different between the servo and box, so this will all be bolt in and reversible if I, or a subsequent owner, wants to go back to original.
Out of curiosity, after removing the servo, I decided to pull it apart, and what I found was interesting to say the least.
All the seals appear to be in really good order, not being perished, and still being really flexible with no perforations. However I poured about a litre of what looked like auto fluid out of it, but was probably old brake fluid which had turned a reddy orange through rust. Most of the moving parts were badly gunged up with what looked like old contaminated grease and rust, so didn't move freely, with quite a bit of corrosion on many parts.
I will probably clean everything up, de rust it all and reassemble with existing seals, as they really do look in good condition, seal it up to keep out any moisture and put it into store.
I intend fitting the later components, to hopefully improve the system, perhaps with a view to up grading the calipers in the future, with which the Dunlop servo & master cylinder would not cope.

Will update once all new kit is in place, and the oldie rebuilt.

WP_20160730_011.jpg (219.13 KiB) Viewed 4546 times

WP_20160730_005.jpg (287.78 KiB) Viewed 4546 times

WP_20160730_006.jpg (192.59 KiB) Viewed 4546 times

WP_20160730_007.jpg (194.89 KiB) Viewed 4546 times

[Chris_R]

Impressive stuff.

[Kevin Birch]

I have now fitted the later servo, and FAG master cylinder to my car, (pictures to follow) which has improved the braking, but now I need some advice on the old Dunlop servo. I've cleaned up, de-rusted and de-greased all the components, but now want to reassemble it, whilst I can remember how it all goes back together.
What lubricant do I use on the seals during reassembly, bearing in mind I will not be putting it back on the car, so will be storing it, and how do I store it in a manner that it will not deteriorate.
I'm a firm believer in trying to keep a car original, but sometimes compromises must be made to make the car useable. In the future I will assume good quality seals will become available again for these servos, so a future owner may want to refit it for originality.

[Dion]

I'm a firm believer in trying to keep a car original, but sometimes compromises must be made to make the car useable. In the future I will assume good quality seals will become available again for these servos, so a future owner may want to refit it for originality.

+1
As the owner of a car you can do whatever you like to the car, but please keep the original components.
A friend owns a Triumph Stag which he modified extensively - Rover engine, BMW rear suspension, Lancia seats, new dashboard containing VDO meters and so on. But he kept all original parts in case he wants to sell the car in the future. I wish all owners of classic cars would have the same habit.

[Kevin Birch]

Happy bunny today, car went through MOT with only 2 advisories, a little up and down play in the king pins. After doing 3500 miles since rebuilding them, they are due a re grease and re shim.

[garyc]

Hello Kevin
How many grease nipples are there for the kingpins is it just the one at the bottom that you can see from front of car that's parallel to the wheel.
Thanks
Gary

Happy bunny today, car went through MOT with only 2 advisories, a little up and down play in the king pins. After doing 3500 miles since rebuilding them, they are due a re grease and re shim.

[Kevin Birch]

Hi Gary,

there are three, one on the end of the bottom swivel pin, usually pointing forward, then there are 2 actually on the hub, facing the engine bay, at the top and bottom. These feed grease into the bronze bushes through which the king pin passes. I fitted angled nipples here, which makes it easier to get the gun on.

Kev

[garyc]

Thanks Kevin
That's good to know
Gary