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by johnw » Wed Aug 15, 2018 2:58 am

RockyUSA wrote:Thank gawd I read your post, Duncan -
My door chromes have some surface rust and I was wondering what to do about it. Now I know that it must be chromed.
Rocky

Or even just cleaned up as good as possible, and leave it at that. Silver lacquer over big bits of rust might help.

kenny38 wrote:I don't know much about FF'

This is one of the first 50 FFs, but not one of the first bakers dozen or so Vignale finished cars. So Jensen learning about the build of the new shape, and getting ready for the post crossply Girling braked FFs, which used a different front hub casting,
possibly tweaked maxaret, different disc and caliper, and an extra driveshaft spacer, etc. So it is very interesting, and nice that it hasn't been fully restored. Because of that, I would say it is more attractive than a mid chassis number FF, and more important that it hasn't had work. So this is a car I might pay a little bit more for, and certainly accept a lower condition, rather than fresher restored, that I might want on a mid chassis range car like 122.

So I hope none of that is attended to on this car in the strict sense, but I was really interested in the details Martin went into. Also we have to guide and police our "restorers" otherwise we end up with misled owners and vandalised classics like the SP Cannonball went to see. People need to think about localised repairing of tears from behind or localised replacing of leather with similar quality and colour, rather than retrims. Hopefully not a knee jerk redye of the interior to all the same shade, or worse a retrim. I think the industry is moving towards gluing leather back together on splits and doing more stuff like these magic tear repairs on youtube. It was amazingly interesting and reassuring to read the depth of Martin's comments, and it drills it in that people can't get away with poor work any more. As prices are falling, poor work is really going to bite. It is one thing getting work done and having just 30% of the value added to the car, quite another to have the expensive work remove value, especially in a falling market.

I bought a basket case recently to avoid exactly the problem Cannonball mentions with the six packless Jensen SP. A car not having had resto work done can add value, especially when the car has not been stripped by someone other than the person that will repair it. I think it is absolutely vital that we develop this critical mentality, any serious work that is done needs to be spot on, or don't bother. I had a look through Martin's posts of the work on his FF at Rejen. The photos were amazingly useful, as parts/details of that car that were being restored, joints/seams are simply unclear/no longer visible on the car I am working on. Things like spot welds where there should be spot welds, seam welds where there should be seams, etc. Not just new metal let in to fill holes. Also the process of bracing and aligning panels is visible.

I will also say that busy specialists like Rejen are not expensive, they are also great for DIY types, as Jason will talk you through options, sell materials, parts new or used etc. If you have a trim problem, several torn bits on say a Mk3, you could go in and get them fixed, have new bits let in or panels retrimmed, or buy a used panel. If they are the last person on the planet with a rare FF part like a servo it won't be cheap, but Jason explained he had a resto coming up, would need that part, and has XXX months to source one if he sells his stock, etc. I have not bought anything off Rejen yet because I know that supplies are good, that I can make a trip there with a complete list, take old parts for comparison, and between them, Roby and Jegs/Summit, it is all there. Rejen are also down south, so closer to the Ferry for Europe. We are really lucky and there is no excuse for bad work or wrong parts today.

Kenny I look at cars like you describe, working OK but with faults, and am relieved. I think we agree a working car doesn't need to be put through the mill. It is interesting that it is now easier than ever to set up a car with a six pack, you can fit a Lambda sensor to monitor real world, use rolling roads. The same goes for wheel and prop shaft balancing which would once have been a problem on FFs, although new factory old stock prop shafts have worked well for me. Perhaps problems/complaints in the day were exacerbated by poor wheel balancing and uneven tyre manufacture back in the day.
--
John Wild
Working on: LHD 1973 Mk3 Interceptor J series, 119/122.
Previous FFs: 119/006, 119/73, 119/123, 119/132, 127/255, 127/289. Current: 119/036 (remains stolen unrecovered).
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by Mark1Stu » Wed Aug 15, 2018 5:55 am

Well said John.
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by kenny38 » Thu Aug 16, 2018 6:27 am

Hi John Wilde. Have been meaning to ask this for awhile. Are you the very same JW I met at the recent JCCA national rally?. If was you I remember it being hard to ask as you were always surrounded by admirers and young women. kenny38 :lol:
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by kenny38 » Thu Aug 16, 2018 6:40 am

Hi Duncan. Do we know these "restorers" this SP owner used. Are they just local lads or are they nationally known? Is he aware he has been "done over"? kenny38 :shock:
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by johnw » Thu Aug 16, 2018 6:15 pm

kenny38 wrote:Hi John Wilde. Have been meaning to ask this for awhile. Are you the very same JW I met at the recent JCCA national rally?. If was you I remember it being hard to ask as you were always surrounded by admirers and young women. kenny38 :lol:

Hi Kenny, That was not me actually,but your local John Wilde sounds like a top bloke!
--
John Wild
Working on: LHD 1973 Mk3 Interceptor J series, 119/122.
Previous FFs: 119/006, 119/73, 119/123, 119/132, 127/255, 127/289. Current: 119/036 (remains stolen unrecovered).
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by Pymmie » Thu Aug 16, 2018 6:29 pm

kenny38 wrote:Hi Duncan. Do we know these "restorers" this SP owner used. Are they just local lads or are they nationally known? Is he aware he has been "done over"? kenny38 :shock:


I believe both 'restorers' are based in South West England.

The first a well known pair of crooks operating illegally from farm buildings in Cornwall.

The second , a loft insulation company Nr Bristol whose owner bought around 15 poorly Jensens and thought he would

make a killing. (They even spelt Intecepter wrong when registering the company with Companies House)

You couldn't make it up

John P
Mk3 Int - SW Area Rep & Areas co-ordinator

Understeer - Hitting the fence with the front of the car
Oversteer - Hitting the fence with the rear of the car
Horsepower -How fast you hit the fence
Torque - How far you take the fence with you
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by kenny38 » Fri Aug 17, 2018 1:51 pm

Hi Cannonball. You could go back to this poor bugger in a few weeks and offer him salvation money (Christ almighty cheap skate!!!) You may as well as he has been abused so another slice off the loaf won't hurt. Wot an old heart break you are. You mention no noise stuff under the bonnet.?? I have had my previous SP bonnets 30 years and a new one recently from Rejen fitted. I have never seen any material on the underside...just metal. Should I be concerned. Is there another conspiracy? Should I count the louvres?
Kenny38 8)
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by cannonball » Fri Aug 17, 2018 2:16 pm

kenny38 wrote:Hi Cannonball. You could go back to this poor bugger in a few weeks and offer him salvation money (Christ almighty cheap skate!!!) You may as well as he has been abused so another slice off the loaf won't hurt. Wot an old heart break you are. You mention no noise stuff under the bonnet.?? I have had my previous SP bonnets 30 years and a new one recently from Rejen fitted. I have never seen any material on the underside...just metal. Should I be concerned. Is there another conspiracy? Should I count the louvres?
Kenny38 8)



It all adds up to making the car right, no hydura insulation on the hood makes it appear weak and flimsy when you open or shut it,,, its one of those spot something not right then you know that you will soon have a list,, Jensen did things for a reason, and how or why yours do not or have not had it is beyond me ??? but for sure a new remanufactured hood will not come with the hydura insulation on it,,you should get some fitted and make your hood feel like its an expensive item not some cheap tat, :P :P :wink: :wink: :wink:
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by Grant » Fri Aug 17, 2018 9:32 pm

kenny38 wrote: Should I count the louvres? Kenny38 8)

No need to count 'em KennyImage.. there should be 84.. but count them anywayImage.. if there is only 83 they must have been clever with the spacing for you not to notice!! :P
Wizz me over somemore of those Ole Tablets again Kenny.. I've been feeding them to the sheep and so now sold the lawnmower Image..Mind you.. there was enough fluff on it to de-fluff a Fluffer!! :shock:
P.S..that was the same John.W you met.. he did the same to me after he borrowed a Fiver!!Image
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by kenny38 » Sat Aug 18, 2018 9:15 am

Hi Cannonball. When I bought this car back in 88 I did buy with my heart and was a bit of a mug. Have spent a lot over the years getting to a standard of 3 (haggartys/ Shannons). The original bonnet came with serious leading edge rust and no hydura. Had another made by MR and no hydura. latest one from rejen ditto. According to that anarchist, Grant, I should have 84 louvres but I have counted 3 times and still make 103.. Can we
Can you still get hydura for a SP bonnet? Told my youngish missus about your comments and she for once agreed that money should be spent on that "%$^&# Jensen". Can we still get Hydura and why didn't Rejen supply with new bonnet? Perhaps they are enviromentalists and Green voters. Grant, my missus loves the photo of you with RR."Lovely car but who the F.. is that hairy man and does he model for Cannonball brochures"? Am taking SP in soon to have doors lifted/fixed so if can get this material I can get it done same time. JW refuses to take my calls and says will settle soon with Grant.Kenny38 8)
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by Martin R » Sat Aug 18, 2018 9:54 am

I ventured out to Bibury this morning, the premises where this is being sold.
Of course I should have checked first but, they're only open Monday to Friday, weekends by appointment only...
I thought it deserved a look in the metal, rather than speculation based on photo's which may or may not show corrosion/bad leather/replaced sections of interior etc.
Maybe next week!
FF MK1 119/100
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by kenny38 » Mon Aug 20, 2018 1:05 pm

Spoke to Rejen (Quality cars for the gentry, sir) today and queried lack of under bonnet material on SP bonnet which they recently supplied. Appears they do not supply this material where a bonnet is to be painted by outside restorers. Will have to get my own but Hydura unavailible in Australia. Kenny38 8)
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by cannonball » Mon Aug 20, 2018 1:07 pm

kenny38 wrote:Spoke to Rejen (Quality cars for the gentry, sir) today and queried lack of under bonnet material on SP bonnet which they recently supplied. Appears they do not supply this material where a bonnet is to be painted by outside restorers. Will have to get my own but Hydura unavailible in Australia. Kenny38 8)



Its all over uk ebay Kenny83 :wink:
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by Dion » Mon Aug 20, 2018 3:15 pm

kenny38 wrote:Will have to get my own but Hydura unavailible in Australia. Kenny38 8)

Try spelling Hardura. Here is one Aus supplier:
http://www.prostitch.com.au/shopdisplayproducts.asp?Search=Yes&sppp=20
67 Interceptor 117/2610
68 Interceptor 115/2943
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by kenny38 » Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:22 am

Thankyou, Dion. Will call them this week. Did you ever get your finger back from that bleeding dyke? Kenny38 :D
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